88 cuts out hard at higher rpm
hey guys. cleaned the carbs last night as I was having an issue with the bike loading up at slow speeds. I could pull in the clutch rev it a few times and all would be fine. clearly too much fuel on the low end. well that is now fixed, I can putter along at lower speeds (below 5k rpm) and it runs fine. pulls good from the low end as well. problem is, I try to take off from a stop and if I get to 6 or 7k rpm it cuts out like the kill switch was hit. tach will drop down to 0 and bounce around a little. if I let of it will come back and run fine. do I have a bad plug? coil? did I knock off a wire somewhere putting the carbs back in? any help is GREATLY appreciated! THANKS!!
Its a carb or voltage issue. If the carb is messed up and works great through one or two rpm ranges and then just dies, you need to to adjust the section that is having the issue. My cane did that twice in its life. It needed the needle height adjusted and the jet size changed to make up for the elevation change that had occurred. A thorough cleaning and adjustment made all the difference in the world.
See here for adjustment: https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-...et-kit-127567/
The second time that happened was when my RR died. A new RR(and battery since it died too) and all was well. I have not seen many coils fail at all.
To check the charging system hook up a multimeter on the battery terminals and mount the meter where you can see it. Go drive, then rev it up. If the voltage drops below 12v and stays there your charging system is toast and needs repair.
See here for adjustment: https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f-...et-kit-127567/
The second time that happened was when my RR died. A new RR(and battery since it died too) and all was well. I have not seen many coils fail at all.
To check the charging system hook up a multimeter on the battery terminals and mount the meter where you can see it. Go drive, then rev it up. If the voltage drops below 12v and stays there your charging system is toast and needs repair.
Thanks. With the carb set where it is, it had been pulling PERFECT in the top end. Seemed weird that the tach would be dropping to 0 like the kill switch was hit. Lights stayed on. New battery this spring as well. Can I hook up the meter and just run it in the driveway? Thanks for the help. Carbs are spotless, and synced up
so this is what happens...
and this is what the meter is showing...
tested the regulator. on the 4 pin one I am getting battery voltage. on the 3 pin, not getting anything. occasionally it shows the minimum, .01. do I test the 3 pin while the 4 pin is still connected? thanks. really looks like regulator I am guessing. was feeling some good heat on my right leg while riding. was a cool night too, must be cooking under there! anyone use a Ricks Electronics R/R? noticed they live in the same state as me, might go pick one up..
tested the regulator. on the 4 pin one I am getting battery voltage. on the 3 pin, not getting anything. occasionally it shows the minimum, .01. do I test the 3 pin while the 4 pin is still connected? thanks. really looks like regulator I am guessing. was feeling some good heat on my right leg while riding. was a cool night too, must be cooking under there! anyone use a Ricks Electronics R/R? noticed they live in the same state as me, might go pick one up..
Yup charging system is toast. The CDI box shuts down when gets below voltage a certain point, just like shutting off a switch. If the charging system was fine you would never drop below 13vdc.
I would suggest new RR first. Electromotive makes an awesome regulator. It regs all three outputs from the stator. The stock one only regulates two of the three and allows the third to do whatever it wants. They also make a stator that gives about a 15% charging increase in overall amperage. Double check your battery as weird voltages like that definitely cause major issues with it.
I would suggest new RR first. Electromotive makes an awesome regulator. It regs all three outputs from the stator. The stock one only regulates two of the three and allows the third to do whatever it wants. They also make a stator that gives about a 15% charging increase in overall amperage. Double check your battery as weird voltages like that definitely cause major issues with it.
have a link for that RR? I was thinking about using the Ricks Motorsports one, like I said they are kind of local to me.
1988 Honda CBR600 HurricaneStreet Bike OEM Style Honda Rectifier-Regulator Aftermarket Parts
thoughts?
thanks a bunch!
1988 Honda CBR600 HurricaneStreet Bike OEM Style Honda Rectifier-Regulator Aftermarket Parts
thoughts?
thanks a bunch!
original cbr 600 rr is sh type shindegen why not upgrade to a newer mosfet one with the fh suffix not sh. it will last longer and dont get so hot one with the part number fh008BA from an 06 cbr 600 should work better.http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111850
yah link is from sv rider but its same for our cbr too its a how to mod your rr link
yah link is from sv rider but its same for our cbr too its a how to mod your rr link
Last edited by 87 cbr 600f; Sep 2, 2013 at 02:38 AM.
Hmm, for some reason I changed the name of the company to Electromotive. I have no idea why I did that. It is electrosport.
ElectroSport - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV - OEM Quality Stators, Regulator/rectifiers and CDIs
ElectroSport - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV - OEM Quality Stators, Regulator/rectifiers and CDIs
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