CBR 600F 1987 - 1990 CBR 600F Forum

1987 cbr600f

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  #11  
Old 03-28-2024, 12:02 PM
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You are very welcome good sir!
 
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2024, 12:25 PM
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So is the picture in the manual upside down?


 
  #13  
Old 03-28-2024, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill1987600f
So is the picture in the manual upside down?


That's correct.
#1 is on left when sitting on bike.
Exhaust valves are at front of bike
Intake valves are behind engine.

Be sure to use torque-wrench on valve-adjuster lock-nut.
 
  #14  
Old 03-28-2024, 02:55 PM
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Yh im literally just nipping them im not cranking them up, soon as its tight and i feel the resistance i stop ,
 
  #15  
Old 03-28-2024, 05:06 PM
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Might be too lose and they'll work they way out later... Gotta be exactly right-on as manual says.
 
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  #16  
Old 03-28-2024, 05:09 PM
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Yh I never use a torque I just crank them up and if there allithen I just don’t over cook it I don’t have a torque here so Yh should be ok
 
  #17  
Old 03-29-2024, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Undo bottom bolt with fork springs installed and compressed with cap.

Make special tool by grinding 1mm off tip of allen key socket. This gives it nice sharp corners for good grip. I chopped off L-shaped allen key to make this socket.



Don’t use impact drivers, spins too fast and will slip tool out of bolt and strip it. Use hammer impact screwdriver instead. Hammer force will keep allen bit inside bolt. Helical cam will convert downward motion into slow high torque to loosen toughest bolt.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...ase-64812.html

Works great on carb float bowl and brake reservoir lid screws. Test on anvil of vise before using to confirm spin direction. Tool can also be set to tighten instead of loosening.
Yes, that worked.
After all parts accounted for, there is a spacer at the bottom of the fork leg.


Going to be an interesting tool that gets that out. Found it can wobble with a screw driver. Stopped doing that concerned about scoring the inner surface.
 
  #18  
Old 03-29-2024, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Undo bottom bolt with fork springs installed and compressed with cap.

Make special tool by grinding 1mm off tip of allen key socket. This gives it nice sharp corners for good grip. I chopped off L-shaped allen key to make this socket.



Don’t use impact drivers, spins too fast and will slip tool out of bolt and strip it. Use hammer impact screwdriver instead. Hammer force will keep allen bit inside bolt. Helical cam will convert downward motion into slow high torque to loosen toughest bolt.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...ase-64812.html

Works great on carb float bowl and brake reservoir lid screws. Test on anvil of vise before using to confirm spin direction. Tool can also be set to tighten instead of loosening.
Yes, that worked.
After all parts accounted for, there is a spacer at the bottom of the fork leg.


Going to be an interesting tool that gets that out. Found it can wobble with a screw driver. Stopped doing that concerned about scoring the inner surface.
So ... tapered the end of ability of Al strap. Gently tapped it in. Recovered it, measured it. Found a matching concrete drill bit. Tapped that in, turned and extracted this 'spacer '. Ah, it was the short piece that goes in the bottom of the stantion. Installed UPSIDE DOWN.

That explains why the front end would bottom out under heavy braking. Into a corner, I'd swear under the helmet.

So my initial parts count was wrong!
 
  #19  
Old 03-29-2024, 11:38 PM
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Woohoo good job!!!

Are you taking about #19 OIL LOCK?
At least now you’ll have front-end that actually handles properly.

 
  #20  
Old 03-29-2024, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dannoxyz
Woohoo good job!!!

Are you taking about #19 OIL LOCK?
At least now you’ll have front-end that actually handles properly.

Yes sir!
Looking forward to not getting that knock when you don't want to feel it!
 


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