1987 cbr600f
Hi folks,
I found another one. Going through the cowling repairs etc. All okay. But for some reason the choke doesn't operate properly and I need to remove the carbies to see what's happening. PROBLEM: Can't remove them. Its like they have not moved in 37 years. I have the manifold connected to them and have been trying to gently lever them, but I need some way of breaking the seal on the boots. I've been spraying with WD40, but of course, its alloy not steel. Hints or suggestions needed please! Could I get a rod of wood and hammer and tap them from the side perhaps. Or am I missing the obvious? |
Something to try is using a hairdryer to warm ip the boots. This sometimes helps to make them more playable.
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Originally Posted by hamlin6
(Post 1358688)
Something to try is using a hairdryer to warm ip the boots. This sometimes helps to make them more playable.
The choke piston in the #3 carbie is stiff, and squeaks. THis is the one whose fork actuator is moved by the choke lever. Its been like this a while, because the screw that clamps the choke cable, has a damaged head from being over tightened. A lot of back and forth and squirts of WD40 haven't resolved it. I'm wondering if somehow the actuator/piston is bent. Or maybe the tiny fork that pulls it is misaligned. Didn't want to separate the carbie stack, but may have to. Likely if I pull it out and clean it, it will be fine. |
My thoughts are that since you have the carbs off the bike, now is a great time to give them a thorough going through.
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Originally Posted by hamlin6
(Post 1358708)
My thoughts are that since you have the carbs off the bike, now is a great time to give them a thorough going through.
And then I reset the actuators on the rod, so they all lift exactly together. They work better. |
Can you believe, the left fork travel is 125mm (right) and the right fork travel is 100mm (what?).:icon_hyper: I have them out on the bench with the springs removed. There is a hard stop at 100mm in the right fork.
And ... I can't get that bolt out, that sits above the front axle, holding the stantion in. Might need to apply a hairdryer to it and get an allen key fitting for the impact driver. This explains the bottoming out I was having, until I upped the pressure in the forks, slightly. Thoughts welcome! :o |
Undo bottom bolt with fork springs installed and compressed with cap.
Make special tool by grinding 1mm off tip of allen key socket. This gives it nice sharp corners for good grip. I chopped off L-shaped allen key to make this socket. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d/...-RGKpwmg_FjMzy Don’t use impact drivers, spins too fast and will slip tool out of bolt and strip it. Use hammer impact screwdriver instead. Hammer force will keep allen bit inside bolt. Helical cam will convert downward motion into slow high torque to loosen toughest bolt. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-...ase-64812.html Works great on carb float bowl and brake reservoir lid screws. Test on anvil of vise before using to confirm spin direction. Tool can also be set to tighten instead of loosening. |
Hey guys I removed the engine case right side and I have a bolt dropped on the floor and don’t know where it’s from please help
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/cbrforu...3e1792694c.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/cbrforu...7605481ac4.jpg |
Looks like the clutch lifter rod....
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...ane-600/clutch |
Your a gentleman
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/cbrforu...d53a415895.jpg |
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