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Havent been able to find Chem-Dip for sale in Canada, but have not been able to get look under the filter myself yet.
I pulled the fuel tank to see what kind of condition it was in, expecting it to be horribly rusted. I was surprised to find it looked pretty clean, I THINK, compared to pictures of other tanks I have seen elsewhere. . It took *forever* to drain the tank. Even after pulling the petcock off I had to shake the tank around for a LONG time to get it close to empty - is that to be expected ?
i also took a first look at the fuel cap and it seems like there must be something missing or wrong. Turning the key, the entire fuel cap and locking mechanism pops out leaving basically a bare metal hole. Locking is accomplished by pushing the entire assembly in. Could this be normal ? Parts diagram doesnt show enough detail, and the service manual doesn’t really address the fuel cap. The owners manual mentions a hinge, which I do not have, nor can I see how it would fasten.
the exterior of the fuel tank, right under the lip of the cap looks corroded.
I am wondering whether I have some sort of aftermarket cap… The keys say “Junken”.
Thoughts ?
Last edited by NuggyBuggyCBR; Oct 12, 2021 at 10:39 AM.
The interior of the tank gives the appearance of being sealed with some type of tank liner/sealer. I could be wrong, it just looks that way. Are you able to see into the tank with enough light to see the location where the Petcock was removed? Can you see any buildup of material around it, like it pooled or something? Yes, not uncommon for gas caps to just come off and leave just the opening. Usually the key won't come out until you put it back on and latch it. It prevents you from riding away from the gas station without the cap.
Caps on the first F (F1?) 87-90 were seperate, unlock and remove, push in to re-lock. F4 (98 on) and later were flip up, attached by pivot pin. Can't rememeber what was on F2 & F3. Sounds like you have a replacement key, original said Honda with wing logo.
The interior of the tank gives the appearance of being sealed with some type of tank liner/sealer. I could be wrong, it just looks that way. Are you able to see into the tank with enough light to see the location where the Petcock was removed? Can you see any buildup of material around it, like it pooled or something? Yes, not uncommon for gas caps to just come off and leave just the opening. Usually the key won't come out until you put it back on and latch it. It prevents you from riding away from the gas station without the cap.
Thanks for the replies @IDoDirt and @stanthomas !
I'll bring an inspection camera to the bike this weekend (I keep it at our cottage), and hope I can get it in around where the petcock came through, but I'm not sure how I will do that. I wonder if I could get the camera up through where the petcock installed. Hmm...
Is it normal to have a hell of a time getting the last bits of fuel out of the tank ? I had expected I would be able to position it just so and have it all drain out, instead even with the petcock out I had to shake it constantly to get the last bits - maybe 250-500 ml ? - out. Each shake would get maybe a few drops here and there.
Did I mention that I don't know what I am doing and have never worked on anything bigger than a chainsaw before ? LOL.
Last edited by NuggyBuggyCBR; Oct 13, 2021 at 08:19 PM.
I don't think I'd have a problem with the boots. They are rubber and are held in place with clamps. As for the other parts, no I would not recommend them. Not sure I'd trust the machining of jets to that kind of pricing. Nice thing about jets is they don't wear out, they just get dirty. It's the O rings and gaskets you need in the carburetor. Here is a link to better than OEM quality. I've used them since 2016 and others on here have to. Takes a few weeks to get them but worth the wait.
While removing and disassembling the carbs, I highly suggest you take about twice as many pictures as you think you will need to put everything back together. There’s a lot of bits to keep track of.
You're also going to want to take the bodies off of the rails. So before doing that, look into the intake manifold side of the carburetors and move the throttle open and closed several time. Look at how they move with relation to each other. Look at how much each one is open when you only barely open the throttle. Seeing that relationship and being able to picture that in your mind will help you a lot when reassembling them and you're ready to put them back on the bike.
On the choke/ fuel enrichment rail, pay particular attention on the spring and spacer assembly. That always throws people as it isn’t super intuitive on how it fits together. It’s a very easy thing to put back together if you have a visual reference.
