pros and cons 1000cc vs 600cc
#44
Some say I'll outgrow the 600 quickly becuase I'm a little more ballsier than most of them and I'll admit I'm an idiot at times when it comes to taking certain risks. Like when I had about 30 seconds of experience on a sportbike in general, let alone a 1000cc bike and floored it and hit 110 with no helmet...
Gearing? Sprockets? pros and cons of stretching?
Gearing? Sprockets? pros and cons of stretching?
http://www.msf-usa.org/
#46
When you say that you used to "race (not competitively)" dirt bikes, I'm guessing you mean that you have just ridden dirt bikes before? I race hare scrambles and MX myself, and the fact that you do not even know what sprockets are is a big red flag to being a total noob imo.
You appear to have zero experience and very questionable judgment/ self control. I'm going to suggest a Ninja 250, and that is only after completing the basic MSF course.
http://www.msf-usa.org/
You appear to have zero experience and very questionable judgment/ self control. I'm going to suggest a Ninja 250, and that is only after completing the basic MSF course.
http://www.msf-usa.org/
#47
A 250 is great to learn on. I learned on a 125 single daelim cruiser and went to a 250 standard after that. A 250 is plenty fast for a beginner, especially one that weighs 120 lbs. I'm 6' and over 200 lbs and that 250 was a great commuter and even had reasonable power for overtaking. It was way way easier to ride in the city too. I always recommend people start with a 250 or 500, or maximum a 650 twin and then get into the rr bikes. Nobody ever takes that advice though mostly due to egos getting in the way.
#49
I went from a Hyosung 125 to a Hyosung 250 to an R1. As I'm starting to stretch out my legs on my current bike, I'm starting to feel a bit of regret in getting a 1000. On the highway, I don't have any complaints whatsoever. If I'm cruising, I can sit in any gear and pretty much overtake anything, brakes come on exactly how I want them to, and as far as those lazy sweeping turns on highways, I never knew a bike could feel so stable.
However, once I hit anything that requires transitions/leaning, my lack of abilities really begin to show. There's a bunch of maybes (is it the carbs that make my bike seem so jumpy? should i go back to stock gears?) that can enter the equation, but I find it's more difficult to find "maintenance throttle position" on this bike when I'm really leaned over and correcting for a bad line is that much more difficult. If I twist the throttle like.. 1/10th, the bike can jump 2-3 rpms in gear. I've only put on about 150-200 miles on this bike so far so I may get used to it, but I'll tell you, this bike would have been murder if I had started on it. Also, just so you know, this is a 150hp bike from 2001 and I can have my front wheel feeling pretty light or in the air if I gun it through to third gear so if you're thinking of a newer bike that has upwards of 180hp... :P
One last bit, read Twist of the Wrist by Keith Code. The weight of the bike when moving means nothing as far as I'm concerned. In fact, getting my current R1 to turn in is easier than the Hyosung 250 I rode before it. If you don't feel like reading the entire book, just check out the sections about maintaining proper front to rear (30/70-40/60) weight distribution with throttle work, braking, and counter steering.
However, once I hit anything that requires transitions/leaning, my lack of abilities really begin to show. There's a bunch of maybes (is it the carbs that make my bike seem so jumpy? should i go back to stock gears?) that can enter the equation, but I find it's more difficult to find "maintenance throttle position" on this bike when I'm really leaned over and correcting for a bad line is that much more difficult. If I twist the throttle like.. 1/10th, the bike can jump 2-3 rpms in gear. I've only put on about 150-200 miles on this bike so far so I may get used to it, but I'll tell you, this bike would have been murder if I had started on it. Also, just so you know, this is a 150hp bike from 2001 and I can have my front wheel feeling pretty light or in the air if I gun it through to third gear so if you're thinking of a newer bike that has upwards of 180hp... :P
One last bit, read Twist of the Wrist by Keith Code. The weight of the bike when moving means nothing as far as I'm concerned. In fact, getting my current R1 to turn in is easier than the Hyosung 250 I rode before it. If you don't feel like reading the entire book, just check out the sections about maintaining proper front to rear (30/70-40/60) weight distribution with throttle work, braking, and counter steering.
#50
A friend of mine is looking to downgrade from a 1k to a 600. He's been riding for years, with years and thousands of miles on his gixxer. His reasoning mirrors raylee's thoughts. On the highway, everything is perfect.
But even with his experience, the liter isn't a comfortable ride in the city. The rear can come loose too easily and he always feels like he's has to maintain a tight leash on a pitbull. He says sometimes it sucks the fun out of riding in the city. So he's looking for a good F4i or RR for his regular bike and turning the GSX into a track bike (as soon as he can pry the cash for the suit from his wife's budget).
Oh and far as size goes, this guy is huge. 6' 4" 250+ guy you don't want to meet in a dark alley without a SEAL team behind you
But even with his experience, the liter isn't a comfortable ride in the city. The rear can come loose too easily and he always feels like he's has to maintain a tight leash on a pitbull. He says sometimes it sucks the fun out of riding in the city. So he's looking for a good F4i or RR for his regular bike and turning the GSX into a track bike (as soon as he can pry the cash for the suit from his wife's budget).
Oh and far as size goes, this guy is huge. 6' 4" 250+ guy you don't want to meet in a dark alley without a SEAL team behind you