input on arata slip on
#1
#2
#3
RE: input on arata slip on
After seeing the Ti Arata on a bike I now have to have one. The quality of the fit, finish and welds are excellent not to mention the sound. What ever you do don't buy one from the dealer or have them install it. Search the net for the best price and install it yourself, you will save big money by just doing that.
#4
RE: input on arata slip on
ORIGINAL: 05Tribal
After seeing the Ti Arata on a bike I now have to have one. The quality of the fit, finish and welds are excellent not to mention the sound. What ever you do don't buy one from the dealer or have them install it. Search the net for the best price and install it yourself, you will save big money by just doing that.
After seeing the Ti Arata on a bike I now have to have one. The quality of the fit, finish and welds are excellent not to mention the sound. What ever you do don't buy one from the dealer or have them install it. Search the net for the best price and install it yourself, you will save big money by just doing that.
]-phil
#5
RE: input on arata slip on
Finished fitting mine about 10 minutes ago. Full Arata Ti with matt black trapazoid can, on Silver 06 1000RR. Will post photo once bike is all back together again. Sounds wicked! Have got PC III USB map from local racer that runs the same pipe with DNA filters. So far..... Puig dark double bubble screen, Arata reareset in black, PC III USB, SpeedoHealer, DNA filters, Renthal 42 rear and 15 front sprockets, Regina X-link gold chain, Clear Alternatives intergrated tailight (removed stock indicators), flush mount front indicators . Still to fit ... Fren Tubo braided brake hoses and Garmin 2610 or Quest, undecided at the moment. Still need to run her in before her first track day on the 13th as well.
#6
RE: input on arata slip on
Did you put enough miles on the bike before you installed the Arata to notice the difference with the full Arata and the new map? If so let us know what you experienced. Can you send me that map? Even though I am getting just an Arata slip on I would like to see how it works with my stock down pipes. I went with the aluminum Arata rear sets and will buy the Ti can. I like the contrasting clean look of the silver/aluminum.
#7
RE: input on arata slip on
I haven't riden it with the full system yet, bike is in a million pieces, wanted to complete all mods at once. Just the Fren Tubo brake lines to go but running out of time if I wanna ride this weekend. Will make a call 2morrow, probably leave the brake lines till next week. I'll let you know on Monday if I get to ride. Done 1000km on stock system so I will be able to feel the difference if any. Aparantly the map I'm getting added 14 bhp at the wheels (full race bike). Not sure how to send it to you though?? Any ideas??
#8
RE: input on arata slip on
I've been telling people for the last 6 months that Arata Ti is the BEST damn exhaust out there. I put one on my bike about 6 months ago and have never looked back. Do the PCIII, BMC race filters and get a custom map done at a Dyno-jet qualified center. Make sure you do the flapper mod and PAIR system block off before the bike hits the dyno. Smart purchase on your part though. Enjoy it bro............
#9
RE: input on arata slip on
PC III is on and using DNA filters. Have the map from Rob Portman, Honda factory rider in South Africa, who has same mods. Booked for fine tuning at Rob's race engineer next week, he's a Dyno-Jet approved. Please elaborate on PAIR system block??? Could this be causing my Fi light to stay on??
#10
RE: input on arata slip on
Not sure what exactly could be causing your fi light to stay on. The PAIR system is something that Honda designed for emission control. It basically takes the filtered air from your air box and forces any air that has ANY type of fuel vapor into the cylinders for total burn up. When dynoing the bike this must be didabled or the dyno will read much more lean then the bike is actually running due to this valve forcing more air into the motor. As far as your light staying on, check to make sure you re-allinged the cable servo for the exhaust. It is located on the left hand side of the bike and had a cable that ran form the servo to the exhaust valve on your old pipe. If you did not mark where the servo sat before you removed the stock exhaust it probably is out of allignment. This is one thing that will cause your bike to read that something is off in the fuel injection which will make your idiot light stay on. Feel free to PM me if you have ant more questions.
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CBR_Rod
F4i - Main Forum
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05-07-2007 01:41 PM