ECU reset w air filter change?
Good day,
I am awaiting a K&N air filter for my ‘08 FB. I was wondering if it was necessary to reset the ECU for such a change.
I would like to do it anyway, as I bought the bike in 02/23 w 6,500 miles on it. If it is true the ECU “learns” how you ride, I’d like to start fresh w the air cleaner upgrade.
In my research, I came across the statement that their ECU “is an open loop system. It does not calibrate fuel delivery based on an oxygen sensor.” Does this make the whole reset irrelevant?
I’ve seen the steps that include disconnecting that battery, firing the bike up until fan starts, etc. Pulling a fuse, if available, makes as much sense.
I appreciate any contributions, in advance.
I am awaiting a K&N air filter for my ‘08 FB. I was wondering if it was necessary to reset the ECU for such a change.
I would like to do it anyway, as I bought the bike in 02/23 w 6,500 miles on it. If it is true the ECU “learns” how you ride, I’d like to start fresh w the air cleaner upgrade.
In my research, I came across the statement that their ECU “is an open loop system. It does not calibrate fuel delivery based on an oxygen sensor.” Does this make the whole reset irrelevant?
I’ve seen the steps that include disconnecting that battery, firing the bike up until fan starts, etc. Pulling a fuse, if available, makes as much sense.
I appreciate any contributions, in advance.
ECU doesn't learn, as in modifies its maps.
It uses base-maps pre-programmed into ECU as starting point.
Then uses O2-sensor feedback to make minor corrections up to 80% throttle (closed loop).
After that, it goes back to base-maps only (open loop).
Factory maps are way, way to rich in high-load +80% range anyway.
With dyno-tuning, you can get +5-8% more power by leaning out factory maps in those ranges.
Free power without any hardware changes at all!
Of course, you lose factory safety-margin in case you get bad petrol out in boonies on super-hot day. Or if fuel-pump/fuel-filtre limits flow or if injectors start gumming up...
It uses base-maps pre-programmed into ECU as starting point.
Then uses O2-sensor feedback to make minor corrections up to 80% throttle (closed loop).
After that, it goes back to base-maps only (open loop).
Factory maps are way, way to rich in high-load +80% range anyway.
With dyno-tuning, you can get +5-8% more power by leaning out factory maps in those ranges.
Free power without any hardware changes at all!
Of course, you lose factory safety-margin in case you get bad petrol out in boonies on super-hot day. Or if fuel-pump/fuel-filtre limits flow or if injectors start gumming up...
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