so I ran out of gas and now it runs like crap
#31
04-02-2009, 09:26 AM
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the manual says you cant test the ECU/CDI unit at home...only the honda dealer can do so....does this mean I can take my ECU to the dealer and have them test it for me and tell me if its bad or not or would I need to bring in the whole bike.,....dont mind bringing in the unit, but dont want to bring teh whole bike in.
#32
04-02-2009, 10:48 AM
the manual says you cant test the ECU/CDI unit at home...only the honda dealer can do so....does this mean I can take my ECU to the dealer and have them test it for me and tell me if its bad or not or would I need to bring in the whole bike.,....dont mind bringing in the unit, but dont want to bring teh whole bike in.
#33
04-02-2009, 02:04 PM
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i took the whole bike in - remember I had no clue what was wrong.
It cost me an hours labour (45 GBP) to have it diagnosed and they advised me to get one of ebay as it would be too expensive from them !!
I know we all like to do stuff ourselves - but it got to the point where I was just throwing money at it and not getting anywhere - had bought new plugs / used coils / HT leads in addtion to stripping / cleaning the carbs lots (Cost a lot just in spray cleaner) - 45 pounds seemed like a reall good deal
If you do take the bike in they may find the fault - and it may not be the CDI - I Would remove as much fairing as you can before taking it to help reduce the labour cost
It cost me an hours labour (45 GBP) to have it diagnosed and they advised me to get one of ebay as it would be too expensive from them !!
I know we all like to do stuff ourselves - but it got to the point where I was just throwing money at it and not getting anywhere - had bought new plugs / used coils / HT leads in addtion to stripping / cleaning the carbs lots (Cost a lot just in spray cleaner) - 45 pounds seemed like a reall good deal
If you do take the bike in they may find the fault - and it may not be the CDI - I Would remove as much fairing as you can before taking it to help reduce the labour cost
#35
04-02-2009, 04:21 PM
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ok...some good prices over the pond there...worth it to buy and ship from there, BUT..how do i know which one will work? I dont know what years are compatible with the 90.
thanks by the way for looking for them for me...I found one here in the states for $75 plus shipping...not bad, but I think the UK is better..
thanks by the way for looking for them for me...I found one here in the states for $75 plus shipping...not bad, but I think the UK is better..
#37
04-02-2009, 06:33 PM
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ok heres what I did today..tested the pulse generator resistance...480ohms, getting spark...weak, but its there so i figure the PG is good...cant seem to get a good .7v reading off of it though..using a high end fluke, but it might not be catching the voltage if its less than 100ms duration...I seem to have a full volt loss from the battery to the coils..(some drops on the fuse, ign. sw., kill sw. ecu.) add up to about 1 volt loss getting tons of fuel...wonder if its too much and flooding, but I would think it would still fire or at least try to...im getting fuel and spark, but not running...it ran before I cleaned the carbs...will check those again tomorrow...at a loss here.
#38
04-02-2009, 07:10 PM
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on another note though...I hadnt thought much of it, but when I went to go look at the bike the first time, they owner didnt ahve a battery for it...so he used one of those industrial battery charger/starter units on wheels to start it....what is the the probability that he fried the ECU/CDI when he did that? It was running fine when I picked her up,
I am no expert with the electrical stuff on these old girls , but Pete, Martin and a few of the other guys are pretty good...
(where are you guys
? !!!)Have you checked the plugs for flooding (are they wet now ?) since she has now stopped firing at all ?
Strange how it seems to have gotten progressively worse now..?
I bet this problem is wearing you thin now ....
#39
04-03-2009, 07:43 AM
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Im wondering....I rebuilt the alternator clutch when i picked up the bike....now I have fuel and a little fire (still weaker than i think it should be)...is it possible the alt. clutch didnt hold for long? This could explain why it wont start at all now possibly, but it wouldnt explain why it started acting up and running like crap right before....sorry just thinking out loud here...going to pull the plugs tonight and see if they are wet...Im smelling all kinds of fuel through the pipe and surrounding the motor, so im pretty sure im getting fuel...the spark is weak but it is there and constant...so i dont think the PG is bad, I used a different set of coils just to make sure the HT lines and other wires were good and got a little better fire, but not enough to say the coils are bad...and what are the chances both went bad at the same time anyway....Im leaning towards the CDI at this point, but I suppose it could just be running so damn rich it cant fire, but I would still think it would at least catch every now and then...absolutely nothing though..I didnt mess with anything other than to pull the bowls and jets to clean them and pulled the slides out...didnt take anything else apart.
#40
04-03-2009, 08:09 AM
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by the way....my spark may be small and weak, but its color is blue/white...not yellow/orange....to me this actually means the CDI is working fine and I have good spark...I think I just need to replace the plugs and make sure those are good first....then pull the airbox and go back to the beginnning...clean the carbs again and make sure they are set correctly.
this probably is carb related....or compression related...wonder if I toasted some rings while running it with no airbox....only have about 20 miles on it like that though....but you never know.
this probably is carb related....or compression related...wonder if I toasted some rings while running it with no airbox....only have about 20 miles on it like that though....but you never know.