Clean the pistons /slides with wd 40 - and wipe with DuPont Teflon spray (Lowes)
Clean the bodies where the slides contact the same way

See if it helps

All the slides springs when they out are the same tension an length ?

No leaks in the manifold rubbers ? no leaks in the carb cap orings ?

no leaks in the velocity tube retainer orings ? (rear facing alum tubes with black plastic retainer orings connecting to airbox)

little tension springs for butterflys all in place ? (this may be your issue) as well as the larger coil springs

 

Hawkwind,
thanks for the info. I will take a look at the throttle cables. My local shop suggested remove them and spray WD40 on them to lube them, i don't know how that will aid as it does not seem to be a throttle issue. I will also take a pic to the connection of the throttle at the carb bank. I don't think one can plug them in the wrong place but one never know.

I honestly don't want to remove the carbs. But i think the only way to do them is by removing them from the bike. Or do you think i can just remove them while the carb banks are i the bike?

 

Sprock,
Great suggestion with dupont teflon lube. Im going to get a can of this. I honestly don't want to remove the carbs. But i think the only way to do them is by removing them from the bike. Or do you think i can just remove them while the carb banks are i the bike?

Could you explain a bit more on these? This is greek to me..I still don't have a motorcycle lingo...Pics that you can use to explain this to me it'd be great.

No leaks in the manifold rubbers ? no leaks in the carb cap orings ?

no leaks in the velocity tube retainer orings ? (rear facing alum tubes with black plastic retainer orings connecting to airbox)

little tension springs for butterflys all in place ? (this may be your issue) as well as the larger coil springs

 

I was kinda ruling out the cables, 'cos on the third video you seem to make sure the throttle is completely closed and the bike is still revving high, don't really think that will help you.

I've never done it, but I'm pretty sure you can remove the tops of each carb with them still on the bike, to remove the diaphragms. Though really once you're used to it, getting them on and off is just a 10-15 minute job.

If you're going to try it on the bike, make sure you surround them with rags, so when you drop one of the screws, it doesn't disappear into the interior of the bike!

 

Yeah tops off the carbs and you can indeed work on the slides without removing the
carbs but like Hawk just said when you get used to it taking the carbs off gets to be a
ten minute process & tip you go about taking the cables off when the carbs are out
and sitting up for easier access.

Personally I think you need to pull them and go through - somethings missing or out of
whack - take detailed pics especially between the bodies - give us a look

I have 4 sets of carbs in various states of dis-assembly I can quick ref and help you
with

 

Thanks Hawkwind and Sprock!
I'm going to work on this bike either tonight or tomorrow night. I will purchase the DuPont Teflon spray i read good reviews on this.

I will venture and remove the carbs again. I will take pics. I'm just afraid that the carbs would get unsync after my local shop claimed to have them sync. I still find it interesting that after a few minutes of warming up the RPM goes up to 3K then 4K. It seems to me that this is not normal, but what do i know? do you think that's normal? In the other hand, once i slowly take off the choke then the RPM goes down accordingly.

Sprock, I will take pics. I wonder if i should submerge the carbs in carb cleaner. I didn't do this last time i removed them. I just sprayed them and wiped off with a towel. I did submerge the air pilot screw, idle pilot and jets overnight.

Again my main concern is that the carbs may get unsynced, but i guess if i want it done right, i should do it right.

Thanks all, i will keep posting and asking questions...

 

You can try just taking the tops off first and if that doesn't cure the problems then go the whole hog.

It is normal for the rpm's to rise with the choke on as the bike warms up, decreasing the amount of choke will lower the rpm's to a normal idle.

It's a bit confusing on these bikes, the 'choke' isn't really a 'choke' at all. The correct name is an enricher, as it adds more fuel to the mixture as opposed to 'choking' the air supply.

 

Submerge in Carb Cleaner - : don't with the diaphragms in or they are toast

Carbs won't unsync unless you use a philps head on the butterfly screws

Before doing anything run a light silicone sealant around each carb cap and
rescrew and see if it helps

True Hawk it's not a conventional choke in that sense

 

Hey guys, finally got time to work on this bike.

I didn't remove the carbs and submerge in cleaner. I just took the tops off and cleaned them.

Sprock, I used the DuPont Teflon spray. Thanks for that advise. It worked wonders!!

Some of the needles were cleaned to my eyes but then I can feel friction when sliding them into its place. Use a very fine sand paper to take the tiny dirty particles from them.

Hawkwind thanks for your advise too and the explanation on the choke. Bike still spike up after 30-40s of starting I just take some of the choke off then rpm goes down. Then slowly goes up then take more choke off until I don't have to have it on.

I got to say bike works fine!!! Well I let you guys be the judge of that here are some videos:

One more, rpm is not hanging up any more

 

Well done mate, a big improvement!

The operation of the choke as you describe it is perfectly normal.

Now go ride and enjoy her!!