Great glad to know I put them back in correctly and that they are working fine. However, I will remove them and clean them with wd40 since they're out already might as well do the job. I will also check the diaphragm.

You mentioned checking the float valve for leak. I don't have an extra tank but I had this idea and idk if it'd work. Can I just plug the fuel hoses from the tank back into the carburators and turn the gas **** back to on. I assume that will make fuel go into the carbs and the float will get gas in it. Is there other way to check this without and extra tool/fuel pressured tank? I seem to remember motion pro selling some tank for this purpose.
Thanks

 

You'll need vacuum for the fuel to flow, just suck on the vacuum tube attached to the fuel tap.

 

Makes sense hawkwind! I will try that. Thanks!

 

Yep Hawk's got this totally right - vacuum required and not a lot to open the diaphragm

Had to do it yesterday to drain my tank so I could adjust my mk3 fuel sender in
the 1990 1000F

 

I assume that when I'm making vacuum (sucking in the air tube) I have to have the choke in "on" position or doesn't matter? I assume that as that's how I'd start the bike.

I ordered the o-rings Sprock recommended. Waiting for them in the mail; meanwhile, I have the main jet, idle jet and air pilot soaking in carb cleaner. Should I submerge the carbs itself in carb cleaner too. I know I have to remove the diaphragm, but do I have to remove the float valves too? Also, how do I check for float valve height level to see if they are set correctly? Thanks

 

yeah by loading the carbs prior to install I meant just keep filling the primary fuel line feed
- not reattaching the tank with petcock - sorry missed that part in your post.

Chances are if the carb gaskets are old and have been dry for a few days they will
have shrunk and will leak - better to find out as I said before installing.

Dont use regular RTV silicone to try and seal either - they'll eventually leak again

If you want to avoid the big cost of new fuel bowl gaskets just smear a light
coat of this all around the both mating surfaces of the fuel bowls putting the
old gaskets in place too - make a nice lightly coated sammich with it
not so much that it ooozes inside the bowls when screwed back tho'
just enough for a nice clean seal - let them set for a day before loading
up with fuel again - I know it say 20 mins cure - but it's an evaporative cure
so imo - leave them a day to cure/dry



It's motorcycle carb specific

Permatex-motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey

 

Ok so, place fuel line in a gas container suck air from the air tube to create vacuum so fuel will be feed to carbs. Or use a pump to push gas into the carbs while also sucking air from the air tubes?
I put the float bowls back in place the same day I took them out but I see what you mean by getting dry. I will remove them and put the permatex just to be in the safe side or should I see of it leaks if it doesn't then no need?? I know silly questions but I just want to make sure I do it right. I really appreciate your patience Sprock and hawkwind!

 

You need vacuum at the petcock to allow fuel to flow from the fuel tank, that was the tube that runs from the petcock to the carb vacuum feed on No1 carb, the carbs are gravity fed after that. If you're going to use a separate fuel container then you wont need vacuum.

As for the bowl seals, personally I wouldn't use a sealer unless I actually had a leak, just my preference. That's up to you, I don't know what condition your seals are in, mine were pretty good last time I did them.

 

Thanks for the explanation hawkwind, it makes more sense now.

Float seals seem ok, no cracked or anything. I will test for leak then post back. Thanks again!!

 

the day has come when i'm going to put the carbs back together and check for leak.

One thing i was forgetting to mentioned. In carb#4 the air pilot (one on the lower side of the carb) didn't want to come out. I turned it an turned it and nothing. I eventually got it out. Turned out, pull it, turn out pull it until it finally grab the thread and it came off normally. Should i put it back in or should it be replaced? I checked inside and the thread look fine and so did the air pilot. Any thoughts? If i get a new one, do i have to do anything special or just screw it in until it seats then 2 1/2 turns out?