Ok got them out my question is, do these two tubes need to come out? http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share
How far in I have to screw these pilot and jet?
http://s1259.photobucket.com/albums/...er_media_share

 

Pilot jet gets screwed in firmly to the carb body

Pilot air screws - screwed in lightly (finger tight) then back out exactly
2 and one half times, as in 360 , 360 , 180 / each carb

While you have them out - bench balance the butteflys making sure all
open at eaxactly the same rate and close the very same , also wind back
your idle / stop if it's set too high from before

As for the fuel bowls get ready to check for leaks by loading the carbs
with fuel before you put everything back on the bike

Trust me - it saves a lot of expletives later when leaks are discovered
after reinstalling everything

 

Thanks Sprock!!
Here are the links again
http://m1259.photobucket.com/albumvi...C.jpg.html?o=0
http://m1259.photobucket.com/albumvi...C.jpg.html?o=0

 

Not the tubes - the main jet just screws in to the tube

same with the thinner longer pilot jet

Just be methodical and clean everything taking great care to treat the carb diaphragms
with great reverence - they tear easy - hold them up to a bright light in a dark room
and look for any perforations - these by themselves will screw up everything and not
be that apparent........ they have got to be 100% or nothing will run right.

 

Thanks Sprock for your help. I don't need a D tool now as my pilot jet are flat head. I will take a look at the diaphragm as I looked them over and they look fine but did not do the light test as you mentioned. I will try that tomorrow. I was trying to compare the o-rings from my bike with the ones in your pics. It seems as your o-rings are rounder and bigger than the ones in my carbs. Are those just any o-rings or honda oring? I was looking in ebay for air pilot o-ring, but just found the set which runs for $40. If i want to replace all four o-ring then that's $160, granted i can replace the bowl gasket too, but that's more than i anticipated to spend. I guess there is always somthing. Are there other o-rings or gasket i can use for this bike?

 

Nah I bought a generic set of o-rings on ebay - basically about 20 sets for many brands
of carbs - I chose the slightly more "plump" ones for these needles as I wanted to be
certain they were air tight

point being tho the old ones were as hard as hell and there is no way they were
sealing properly - testimony being the bike now idles like a purring cheetah

I'll throw a link up in a min so you can hear how much of a nice level idle purring sound
she now makes

 

Sounds very nice!!!! Wish mine sounded like that but with choke off, instead it dies. But i'm sure i'll get there. If you don't mind sharing the brand or model # of the generic o-rings that'll be helpful. That way i can find it in ebay plus I know those had worked on other bike with great result. As you may had noticed I'm new at working with bikes and i don't want to get something that may not work. Thanks!

 

Not Brand specific just an Ebay Kit

Let me dig back and see if I can find the Ebay vendor

These ones from this Guy Pretty much all the 0-rings you'd need
for the fuel T's , breather T's and Needles and a few left over for
other bikes I'd need some for

Didn't want to buy a whole carb kit which is like 80 bucks for the cheapest out there

Don't worry - with patience you'll get there

 

Thanks Sprock! I will buy those. As per the description it says it's for MK carbs which are the ones in our bike. I really appreciate the patient and help you and the others had giving me. If the diaphragm may had some holes or crack, what can be used to seal them?

Also, is there something to lube them the tube that hides the needled (idk what's called), the round black tube seems to be rough as if there is some sort of friction and if i pushed it with my fingers i hear air being sucked in then it comes down ( i imagine the spring pushes it back down); however, sometimes i notice it gets stuck all the way up and it comes down slowly but after a few seconds. I'd say 10-15 secs.
But i think is because i'm pushing it in way to fast that there is not enough air vacuum in it. If i wait an interval of 2 sec in between then it does not get stuck. I'll make a video so it'll be easier to see.

Here are some videos of my carbs. Notice carb# 2 at the beginning of the video how it's stuck and coming down very slowly.

After removing the diaphragm i noticed some improvement, but still hear friction and if you hear the spring also moving in this second video. I dont remember hearing the spring sound before i opened the diaphragm, did i put it back in the wrong way?

Well off to work, but i will monitor the forum throughout the day. Hope you guys had a nice weekend and this week too!!

 

They look normal - cleaning the slides (hard plastic part) with wd 40 will make them slide
more smoothly - needles should be dead clean and equally pointed. The principal with the
diaphragms is engine intake vacuum for actuation ! When you crank the throttle and the
butterfly valves open - more vacuum raises the needle slides and more gas gets sucked into
the motor- Holes in the diaphragms would mess with that scenario.

Some folks here claim success with plastic dip to repair holes ! Has never worked well
for me - as where I am it can be sub zero at times and plastic dip has just lead
to another crack at the edge of the application point for me. But that is just my
experience with it.

Anytime I 've had diaphragm tears holes cracks or leaks - I simply replaced the bad
one. Short term fixes suck as carbs are something you want to get right and then
leave the hell alone. imo