Is this the right Rotella?
Opinions on oil are like........ everyone has one. I stick with my Castrol GPS Power 1 - 10w 40. Some guys like the Rotella, Motul, Mobil or whatever. It's much like the tyre debate I suppose. We all use what has served us well in the past. For me that is Castrol oil and Bridgestone or Michelin Tyres. None of which have ever let me down so I stay loyal to them.
Last edited by gotcbr; Sep 11, 2012 at 10:32 PM. Reason: language
Banned
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Bottom of a Bottle in RI US
2True don't fix what ain't broke. 
But afa the tensioner, It was broked! and running marvels mystery for a few hundred miles then switching to synthetic cleared it up. So take that for what it's worth guys My bike isn't clanking anymore.
But afa the tensioner, It was broked! and running marvels mystery for a few hundred miles then switching to synthetic cleared it up. So take that for what it's worth guys My bike isn't clanking anymore.
Originally Posted by Sprock
TBT wrong -
No Way !
No Way !
This will just turn into more walls of text, asking for sources, discrediting sources, more walls of text, etc.
I think I'm just going to say that he's right.
Is that wrong of me? Oh well.
You're right on the money, TBT! Jolly good story, bro!
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,237
Likes: 15
From: Bir Tawil
The w is weight. Up to 90% of engine wear is from cold start-ups. Thinner oils run down from the top end. The multi grade oils thicken due to the viscosity index improvers take it to the -xx at operating temp. Due to the immense shearing forces in the gear box, the additives get torn apart reducing the oil to the original weight. A 5w-40 would reduce to SAE-5 and a 10w-40 to SAE-10. Straight SAE-40 would not be good on cold starts and would thin at operating temps. A SAE-50 would work the best but cold starting would be very bad in real cold conditions.
I would have to agree that 5w-40 is better in a car and that 0w-40 is even better but I guess my point is, in bike that shares the oil with the gearbox, it may not be the best choice.
You better believe I'm right! LOL
The w is weight. Up to 90% of engine wear is from cold start-ups. Thinner oils run down from the top end. The multi grade oils thicken due to the viscosity index improvers take it to the -xx at operating temp. Due to the immense shearing forces in the gear box, the additives get torn apart reducing the oil to the original weight. A 5w-40 would reduce to SAE-5 and a 10w-40 to SAE-10. Straight SAE-40 would not be good on cold starts and would thin at operating temps. A SAE-50 would work the best but cold starting would be very bad in real cold conditions.
I would have to agree that 5w-40 is better in a car and that 0w-40 is even better but I guess my point is, in bike that shares the oil with the gearbox, it may not be the best choice.
The w is weight. Up to 90% of engine wear is from cold start-ups. Thinner oils run down from the top end. The multi grade oils thicken due to the viscosity index improvers take it to the -xx at operating temp. Due to the immense shearing forces in the gear box, the additives get torn apart reducing the oil to the original weight. A 5w-40 would reduce to SAE-5 and a 10w-40 to SAE-10. Straight SAE-40 would not be good on cold starts and would thin at operating temps. A SAE-50 would work the best but cold starting would be very bad in real cold conditions.
I would have to agree that 5w-40 is better in a car and that 0w-40 is even better but I guess my point is, in bike that shares the oil with the gearbox, it may not be the best choice.
But yeah.... I can agree that roughly 90% of engine wear is on startup, which is why it's better to have an oil that's thinner when it's cold so it can circulate better. That's where the expression "No oil is too thin at startup" came from.
The argument that 5W40 or 10W40 oil is first going to shear to its base weight, then damage the motor so much more at a 5 vs 10 is balderdash, my good man. Balderdash.
If your 5W40 Synth is testing out even to a 10.... then you're doing it wrong and are going to have some other big issues as well. (40,000mile OCIs anyone? lol..)
Regardless... the T6 5W40 has been tested many times over. (if you remember, Dave used to test it all the time). I think he changed it at 7,500 miles.
Senior Member and Montana roustabout :)
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 410
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From: Flathead Lake, Montana
First off, the w is not weight.
But yeah.... I can agree that roughly 90% of engine wear is on startup, which is why it's better to have an oil that's thinner when it's cold so it can circulate better. That's where the expression "No oil is too thin at startup" came from.
The argument that 5W40 or 10W40 oil is first going to shear to its base weight, then damage the motor so much more at a 5 vs 10 is balderdash, my good man. Balderdash.
If your 5W40 Synth is testing out even to a 10.... then you're doing it wrong and are going to have some other big issues as well. (40,000mile OCIs anyone? lol..)
Regardless... the T6 5W40 has been tested many times over. (if you remember, Dave used to test it all the time). I think he changed it at 7,500 miles.
But yeah.... I can agree that roughly 90% of engine wear is on startup, which is why it's better to have an oil that's thinner when it's cold so it can circulate better. That's where the expression "No oil is too thin at startup" came from.
The argument that 5W40 or 10W40 oil is first going to shear to its base weight, then damage the motor so much more at a 5 vs 10 is balderdash, my good man. Balderdash.
If your 5W40 Synth is testing out even to a 10.... then you're doing it wrong and are going to have some other big issues as well. (40,000mile OCIs anyone? lol..)
Regardless... the T6 5W40 has been tested many times over. (if you remember, Dave used to test it all the time). I think he changed it at 7,500 miles.
"Motor Oil 101
For a motor oil identified as "10W-40," the first number that appears stands for 10 degrees Celsius; the "W" stands for winter. This means that the oil should function and start the vehicle properly when the outside temperature is 10 degrees Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit) during winter. The second number determines how thick the oil is while under the heat of a running engine. The higher this number, the thicker the oil will be under heat.
Characteristics of 5W-40 Motor Oil
5W-40 is a thin motor oil that will get to a vehicle's moving parts easier and lubricate while trying to start it up. The "40" indicates this is a bit thicker than the average motor oil, which is usually 30 for most cars, and it lubricates the engine more than average while it is hot.
Applications of 5W-40 Motor Oil
Mechanics commonly use 5W-40 motor oil to support higher mileage engines because it is thicker under heat than the average oil and will lubricate moving parts better inside the motor that have been worn down due to strain or age. Ideally, this oil is used on high-mileage vehicles in climates that experience winters of 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit). This oil is reliable for cold engine start-up but may be less reliable for climates that experience freezing temperatures.
Characteristics of 10W-40 Motor Oil
10W-40 is a bit thicker than 5W-40 but is still rather thin and works well to lubricate the moving parts of an engine during start-up. This oil's number "40" means it will be a little thicker than average while exposed to the heat of a running engine.
Applications of 10W-40 Motor Oil
Drivers commonly use 10W-40 motor oil in vehicles with higher mileage because the oil is thicker while the engine is hot; this helps lubricate older moving parts. This oil is meant to start up vehicles in winter climates that experience temperatures of 10 degrees Celsius. The 10W-40 oil is not as reliable for engine start-up in colder winter climates as 5W-40 is."
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