Of course; Magic, now I finally understand how electrickery works.

Why has no-one ever made it that simple and easy to understand before?

 

I got looking at that myself. Every example I found had the coil spinning and they did mentioned brushes. The voltage has to be checked inside the R/R as it's not done elsewhere.

After looking at this system, I got thinking that you need some power in the exciter coil to make more power. A totally dead battery wouldn't have enough power to make more power. So....bump starting with a dead battery is out, from what I see... A permanent magnet system would produce power with a dead BAT.

cooltim, I also used the first example of your the R/R from RadioShack on my '68 CB350. It worked great. The regulator was separate on that bike.

 

Hey Tim,

You piqued my interest with the use of the Bosch RE55 regulator with the rectifying bridges. Feel like doing a How To on that as I have a brand new Made in Australia RE55 sitting on a shelf in my shed. What rectifying bridges did you use and how are they connected/wired. As an electician I make a fantastic Entomologist Where in Australia are you?

Cheers, SB

 

^ Like SB's question +1

 

ok Here is a quick and dirty MSPaint of the wiring diagram, it turned out OK so should suffice

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7...1cdaf692_o.jpg

400V 35A Bridge Rectifier - Jaycar Electronics

I will get a piccy of the mess of wires hidden behind my fairing just so anyone else who attempts this doesn't feel so bad that it looks like ****

I'm in Sydney, St Leonards area.

 

You Tim, sir, are a bloody legend! Thanks for that, I have to go out this afternoon for a short while and might just drop past Jaycar

If you're in the Adelaide Hills, feel free to drop in for a beverage..............

Cheers, SB

 

Got home from my 1700 mi trip yesterday and my new ElectroSport R/R was waiting for me. Today I installed it and its working great.

There was nothing wrong with my old OEM R/R but thought it was getting old. It didn't start working (charging) until 2,800 rpm and even then it was putting out just 12.5v until higher rpm's. Max volts was only 13.5v

The ElectorSport R/R works at idle keeping the BAT at 12.5 with high beams on. At 1,500 rpm it is putting out 14.5v.

Two days ago I was in NYC trying to cross the GWB in stop and go traffic. At idle I was loosing juice and the bike was not running right, it was stalling a bunch. It was very hot and I had some bad gas. At idle it was pinging and knocking and stalling.

I can't wait to be out on the road with my new R/R.

A couple of notes; It does get warm to the touch when the bike is running. The fins will most likely pull that heat off.

Also, when the R/R was exposed, the Bl and the W wires are keyed. Interesting. One may power up the exciter coil and the other may be working a gate circuit.