I found this R/R on e-bay and thought I'd give it a try for the price. Free shipping and it can't be any worse than the untrustworthy factory one.

My plan is to carry the factory one, that is still working, as my backup until the' Factory Kiss ' replacement proves itself.

 

Martin (Naga_thai) bought one a while ago as a backup - don't know if he's ever used it........
Cheap enough to take a chance - even if it just gets you home it's paid for itself.....

 

Gotta love the name of that Ebay Vendor "policeflashinglight"

At least somebody has a sense of humor - worth to have as a backup
but happy to let U TBT be the tester

 

We now have an official R&D department

 

I'll keep you posted.

 

Just how much trouble can the Rectifier Regulator be on the CBR1000F? After spending a night reading posts on the forum regarding this, why did the factory produce an item which fails prematurely?

It seems to affect other Honda models as well?

Cheers, SB

 

^ "It seems to affect other Honda models as well?"

Yes, I hada '68 CB350 that I replaced it on twice. My '79 CB750L I replaced once but only had the bike 2 years. They were under the saddle and the engine heat plus the internal heat would cause total meltdown. The lack of cooling can cause overheating.

How do you get a golf club shaft out of the hosel?...You heat hosel and slide the shaft out. The heat melts the epoxy. The R/R's are a plastic case that the electronics are packed in. Then they are sealed with epoxy. When they get to a certain temp.....it's meltdown time. You get the dreaded black tarry goo running down the bike under the R/R and it stops working.

^"why did the factory produce an item which fails prematurely?"

$1 X 1,000,000 bikes = $1,000,000

AND, $$$$ makes the world go round.......

 

These DO NOT work. CAN NOT work for our bike, CBR1000F.

TBT - I got my money back under false advertising.... suggest you do the same.

This product was referred to in https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...-china-135622/
and Member CBR1999 (DUB) of Rebel Cave in the Carolinas, was the first to advise of it's unsuitability.

WORDS OF WARNING!!! (If you want further detail)...
Many people and sellers are ignorant of the fact that there are 2 types main of charging systems on modern bikes. They then make the mistake of believing that a Regulator/Rectifier (RR) from one bike will work on another bike, even of the same bike brand (eg Honda). This is a big mistake. Stick to original Honda RR or a replacement from a reputable RR supplier (eg Electrex).

There are two main types of alternator that are fitted to most bikes, each requiring a different type of regulator rectifier.

Our CBR1000F has a Field Control Type (FCT) and requires that specific type of RR.

Unfortunately the advertised RR referred to is designed for a Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator (PMR) and hence the RR and reference is not applicable to our CBR1000F.

FURTHER INFO IF INTERESTED....
What is a Regulator/Rectifier RR (From WebMoto)
The regulator rectifier is a combined unit. It does the rectifying part as well the regulation part. It is part of a battery charging system. It usually gets an AC power feed from the stator coil of the generator (alternator). Most modern regulator rectifiers and Stators form a three phase system, so there are three wires coming from the stator feeding into the regulator rectifier. The regulator rectifier then rectifies the voltage; that is it turns the voltage from AC into an undulating DC. The voltage is then regulated; the voltage being limited to a maximum of about 14.5 volts and feeds this regulated DC out to the battery. There are some single phase, regulator rectifiers as well which perform a similar function but there are only two wires coming from the stator into the regulator rectifier which is then fed to the battery in the same way as the three phase system. Why are there two different systems? Three phase is more efficient and single phase are cheaper to produce.
Types of Regulator/Rectifiers
There are two main types of alternator that are fitted to most bikes, each requiring a different type of regulator rectifier.
1) Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator (PMR) - This has permanent magnets that revolve with the engine (rotor), either inside or around a set of wound coils (stator) to produce power. These come in various shapes and sizes. Some have two output wires (single phase), but most have three (three phase).
2) Field Control Type (FCT) - This has a 'field' or 'exciter' coil that is in place of the fixed magnets. When supplied with power from the regulator this becomes magnetized. Some types have this coil spinning inside the output 'phase' coils to give power, and will have carbon brush connections. Others have a stationary field coil, stationary phase coils and have a metal rotor spinning between the two, and need no brushes. The amount of power supplied to the field coil from the regulator decides how much output the alternator will give.
How to test the Regulator
Check the battery voltage, with the engine not running. Start the bike (increase the rpm's up a little), the voltage should now be a couple of volts more than the original battery voltage. Check both voltages (running and not running) at battery terminals.
What can go wrong with it
If yours does fail. Before going to the time and bother and expense of replacing one, it is prudent to consider that there are usually contributory factors to a failure. You should conduct a thorough inspection of all other parts of the electrical system and verify that all components are in good working order and that the regulator was correctly mounted to allow dissipation of heat produced. You could also perform some basic postmortem checks on the regulator/rectifier itself, and attempt to determine what has failed, internally if you have the necessary test equipment.
Total failure
Total failure does not usually mean that every part inside the unit died at the same time. All of the parts share a common ground or hot connection; if the unit tests out totally dead, then this internal connection could have failed. This is typically due to either a manufacturing defect, overheating or metal fatigue from too many heating and cooling cycles. A failed connection can cause any of the observed failure modes, so keep that in mind: just because the device doesn't test out totally dead, doesn't mean that it wasn't defective or simply overheated one too many times.
Failed diodes
If this happens, your battery will stop being charged, the lights become progressively more dim, and eventually the engine will stop. First look for a short or bad connection to the alternator stator coils. A bad connection can cause some serious voltage spikes, which can destroy diodes. Check also for a bad battery connection and any oxide build up on the terminals and connectors. A shorted battery or reversed terminals could cause the diodes to draw too much current and burn out. These symptoms could also point to stator failure so check the coil resistances and or output voltage if your meter has an AC range, to eliminate this.
Failed Shunt Regulator
If this happens, your headlight may become very bright and then blow. Your battery may have boiled dry also.
If the regulator burned out, check your battery connections, if they are loose or corroded the regulator has nowhere to route the output and so must get rid of the power produced in the form of heat. Also, make sure that all of your running lights are working; remember, the regulator sinks excess power, and generates a lot of heat in the process. If all of the lights aren't working, that's more heat for the regulator to get rid of.

ALSO MY LINK HERE - WITH PICTURES .....I wrote this up in 1998 - REGULATOR RECTIFIER - http://tinyurl.com/734engf

 

For anyone who bought one of these under the belief that they could be used on your CBR1000F then you can get your money back due to false advertising. Here is what to write....

"Dear qianqian-uk,
You advertised this item as suitable for Honda CBR1000F (90-96). I have purchased this item on this understanding. The item received is electrically NOT SUITABLE / USEABLE as described. (The unit supplied is a "6 wire" unit and the unit used on these vehicles is a "7 wire" unit.) Your item has only 6 wire circuit ( 3x yellow, 1 x black, 1 x red and 1 x green) whereas the correct unit has a 7 wire circuit ( an additional white wire) and your unit is therefore not suitable and will not work, as advertised, for CBR1000F (90-96). To substantiate the differences between your "6 wire" unit as supplied I have provided evidence of the difference in the 5 page document available as follows.. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13500879/Fac...structions.pdf
As your unit is not suitable, as you advertise, please refund my monies immediately. I do not believe that I should be responsible for payment for the return of the unit supplied as you falsely advertised the unit and I would be paying for your error / or misleading advertisement. Thank you."


For further info....
These Ebay suppliers (and others) source this RR from Guangzhou Kaicheng Metal Produce Co., Ltd. at CB750F2 (85-96), CB750 Nighthawk (91-01), CB1000 Bigone (93-97) Motorcycle Regulator Rectifier - Detailed info for CB750F2 (85-96), CB750 Nighthawk (91-01), CB1000 Bigone (93-97) Motorcycle Regulator Rectifier,Regulator Rectifier,CB750F2 (85-96), CB7

I contacted this manufacturer and they have now corrected their headline advertising to delete reference to our CBR1000F ((but it still appears in their "small print" area as CB750F2 (85-96), CB750 Nighthawk (91-01), CB1000 Bigone (93-97), CBR1000F (90-96), ST1100))...... but the resellers such as this one on Ebay still falsely advertise the item even though they have been advised and forced by the Ebay/Paypal guarantee system to refund monies paid.

This product was referred to in https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...-china-135622/
and Member CBR1999 (DUB) of Rebel Cave in the Carolinas, was the first to advise of it's unsuitability.

 

Just brilliant Naga! Thanks for the heads up.

And that ladies and gentlemen, is one great reason why it is so advantageous to be a member of a model specific forum.

Cheers, SB