Need some help restoring my friends Hurricane.
background, the bike sat outside for many years. My friend Pete past away and I aguired the bike to see what I could do to get it running. Honestly the bike isn't that terrible. So its stripped down, carbs off and apart and I want to make sure the electric is working. It is too a point.
Good charged at the battery
Ground is good
Main fuse is good
Power to the CDI ? (Left rear side by the fuel pump)
power to the ignition fuse
Power to the ignition (on position Power out)
Jumped starter (it turns over)
Checked the on/off switch and it is functioning
No Power to any other fuses
No power lights or cluster
took apart and cleaned all connections under the front fuse bus
stumped

88 cbr1000f

 

@Larshurricane If you look at the wiring diagram, on the Starter Relay Switch, there is a 30A fuse, that if it is blown, will exhibit all the symptoms you are describing.

 

If you have power going INTO ignition-switch on red wire, then 30-amp main fuse is Ok.

When you turn key ON, and there should be power on these ign-switch wires (some are to and some from fusebox):

blue/orange - fan
yellow/black - parking lights
red/black - all other lights, dash dummy lights, ignition, starter
brown - power leaving fusebox
brown/white - power from brown wire of fusebox goes to dash

So basically with key ON, you should measure +12v power at ALL wires of ignition switch. If not, something's wrong with ignition-switch.

 

Did you test ignition switch? This is 5-minute fix with multimeter! Just leave everything plugged in and backprobe ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness.

1. Key ON, measure voltage at each wire of ignition switch:
2. red - volts = ???
3. blue/orange - volts = ???
4. yellow/black - volts = ???
5. red/black - volts = ???
6. brown - volts = ???
7. brown/white - volts = ???

These results will pinpoint exactly where problem is and how to fix it. Just 5-minutes to find problem and fix it!!!

 

Got power had some other connections that had to be cleaned. Thank you so much. Going to keep this thread and just add to it as I go through this project.

 

Now I have power,

moving on to the carbs. I'm going to take a chance and clean these without separating them and put them back together.

 

In looking at that image... that's a huge mistake! You are not going to be able to clean them effectively enough to ensure they work. I guarantee that the O rings on the fuel fittings (brown T tubes between the carburetors) are hard as rocks and are going to leak. Why, because you moved them when you took the fuel lines off and broke the crusty stuff keeping it sealed. You are wasting your time if you go that route.

Have fun !

 

Going to strongly echo @IDoDirt . I can pretty much guarantee you that you will be taking them apart again. A complete disassembly and doing the job right the first time is much easier than troubleshooting the gremlins I promise that you will encounter. Also like he said the o-rings are shot.

 

From looks of corrosion on those carbs, you're gonna need full restoration job.

Bike ran perfectly fine when it left showroom floor and will again when they get cleaned to factory-fresh clean. Many, many expert mechanics have had to pull their carbs 4-5x for ever deeper cleaning before they got them factory-fresh clean. One guy had to pull his carbs 10x !!!

Note, "carb cleaner" sprays no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Don't even bother with using them... Maybe just flush chads and remnants from real cleaning... which is.... scrubbing! Different bike, but Keihin CV carbs are all similar.


1. disassemble down to every last nut, bolt and individual component. If you can take it apart further, keep on going until it's completely separated.




2. Poke out all bleed holes in jets, pilot-screw, emulsion tube, and carb-venturi with soft copper wire.




3. scrub out all hidden secret passages in carb-body with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Spray carb "cleaners" no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Might as well use pee since at least it has some ammonia. https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html

4. ultrasonic soak everything overnight

5. micro soda-blast everything to clear out chads and scruff from above steps

6. replace all rubbers: pilot-screw O-ring, fuel-rail O-ring, float-valves, float-bowl seals

7. set float-level and wet-test

8. sync carbs

On some carbs, even all this isn't good enough. I send to Gordon @ https://customcarbservices.com (ducatiman) and they come back running like brand new!

 

Mike Nixon in Prescott Arizona does some terrific carb work as well.He did some Kehin Carbs for me,like new.
https://motorcycleproject.com/