CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Need Help - Center front/Rear brake piston binding...

  #1  
Old 12-26-2017, 11:34 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 20
Default Need Help - Center front/Rear brake piston binding...

Argh - not one problem since I picked up this bike in 1996... this week I have new tires put on and now the brakes are binding - totally locking up both front and back after a few miles of riding.

I think I've narrowed it down to the foot pedal as the centre front calliper pistons won't slide back in if I extend them. I've bled the foot pedal circuit and ran new fluid through, including opening the orifice bolt etc to bleed the PVC and 2ndary side etc

Anyone got any suggestions? Am I right in thinking I should be able to press the piston back into the calliper easily (I can with the outside two on the front lever circuit).

I guess I should take it out for a ride and not use the foot pedal at all - see if it works?
 
  #2  
Old 12-27-2017, 02:49 AM
Gunk's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 270
Default

It sounds like the piston is not returning, personally Id remove the caliper get it it on a bench and check that the pistons move freely, usually a light sanding with some fine wet and dry will solve it.
 
  #3  
Old 12-27-2017, 03:28 AM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 20
Default

The piston isn't stuck, if I loosen the center bleed valve I can push it in easily. Also I can move it if I loosen the banjo on the foot master cylinder, which makes me think it's the return port on the foot master which is the problem?
 
  #4  
Old 12-27-2017, 05:15 AM
CaBaRet's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Lancs ,UK
Posts: 2,519
Default

Hi, could be you could try this, might as well do the front brake at the same time.
Stand the bike upright, take the tops off the rear and front brake res , get some zip tie's put it around the front brake lever and pull the lever slightly through the free play (only a slight application of the brake) tie off the lever in that position and leave it four a few hours, do the same for the rear brake, hopefully over time this will release air through the res mechanism , and make sure the fluid isn't over filled, put covers back on and see if your brake is any better
 
  #5  
Old 12-27-2017, 02:22 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 178
Default

I would be a little nervous to ride it at all in this condition, but did you try not using the rear brake pedal. It seems strange that you would have this problem just from changing the tires unless someone depressed/squeezed levers while you were away from the bike. I've seen a wheel bearing problem after a change but never this - Hope you find out what it is.
 
  #6  
Old 12-27-2017, 03:42 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 20
Default

Just spent a few more hours on the bike - I think I found a chip of varnish in the return hole of the pedal master cylinder. Most likely the mechanic stomped on the rear brake during his "test ride" - I hardly (if ever) use it thanks to the linked system so maybe he just dislodged some crud.

So far all looks good, but I've only driven 2 miles exclusively on the front brake (all worked fine) and 2 miles on the back.

Let's hope that's it - I ordered a front and rear master cylinder rebuild kit, after 22 years, they are probably overdue (as was the 22yr old brake fluid.

Who knows, I might do the clutch as well IF I can find a kit for it.
 
  #7  
Old 12-27-2017, 05:24 PM
Red Baron's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Prosper, Texas
Posts: 290
Default

Brake system is simple. If you can easily return the pistons back, then there is no other culprit than the master cylinder.
I just rebuitd my brakes and it is an 1988. Even though the pistons were retracting, the amount of corrosion inside came visible after taken out.
Get new seals for the calipers and a master cylinder rebuilt kit as mentioned.
Clean EVERYTHING!!!!!
 
  #8  
Old 12-27-2017, 09:52 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 20
Default

I agree Red Baron - I was wary for two decades to touch it as many people told me "it's impossible to bleed properly", "you'll never get it to balance again" etc - yet, I've had the master cylinders off, empty and it took me a few minutes to bleed on my own, just by using a piece of wood to depress the foot pedal while opening and closing the bleed valve on the other side of the bike.

I may tear down the callipers next - my bike has pretty much dry summer miles only for the last 15 years so it's not in bad condition other than scrapes from moving it across the ocean twice.

I'm more interested in resolving a rough idle - probably the fact I've cleared the clogged slow jets a dozen times, they are probably scored...
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kcrews123
General Tech
4
07-15-2012 09:48 PM
kilgoretrout
CBR 1000F "Hurricane"
11
06-06-2009 06:17 AM
foxens
F4i - Main Forum
7
05-26-2009 09:00 PM
Sweeper1
CBR 600F
1
05-10-2009 04:35 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Need Help - Center front/Rear brake piston binding...


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.