Is there anyone still available from this thread , I'm having some issues with My 88 Hurricane 1000 pretty sure I've narrowed it down , but would love some advice on the stick coil Mod... Please and Thank You !!

 

One of most important things with electronics is to ONLY use factory OEM parts. There's so many crappy 3rd-party electronics out there and many of them are bad right out of box. Needs to be tested and measured to verify functionality before using.

1. measure battery power with everything OFF, volts = ???

2. measure primary impedance of ignition coils, ohms = ??

3. measure secondary impedance of ignition coils, ohms = ??

4. measure resistance of plug wires end-to-end, ohms = ???

5. put everything back together, key On, kill=RUN

6. measure voltage at each ignition-coil terminal, volts = ??

If you're having issues, one of these numbers may be out-of-spec. That will point in direction of what's wrong and how to fix it. But until you measure, you have no idea what's causing your problems.


Here's guy that spent YEARS trying to fix his ignition problems. Didn't measure properly and used aftermarket parts. Was putting up his bike for sale and last ditch attempt was to take to qualified shop. Measuring properly showed aftermarket coils & wires was problem and replacing with factory OEM fixed all problems in less than a day!

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/thr....177612/page-9

 

Here's how to do stick-coil mod.



Remember to ONLY use factory OEM Honda parts!!! Genuine CBR600RR coils and subharness can be found on eBay quite inexpensively.

Be sure to measure and test that power gets to coils properly. Also test each and every wire to make sure it's not broken. If this is causing you problems now, it'll still cause you problems with stick-coils as well. They won't be getting enough power or ignition-unit may not be triggering coils properly with broken wires.

Unless you're Superman who can see electrons moving inside wires, there's absolutely ZERO way any human can look at wires and determine its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily, we have instruments that can.

 

Thanks Guy's i really appreciate your input , i have checked everything according to the troubleshooting guide in the manual... I have a 2 to 3 volt drop in Voltage from black and white wire to ground with ignition & kill switch turned on , the coils were out of spec on the primarys and the generator coils have continuity to ground at the spark unit connectors... So i assume that means the spark unit is bad ?

 

Not necessarily. Want to test each part individually.

1. What is battery voltage with everything OFF?

2. What is battery voltage with key ON, kill=RUN? Always pull headlight fuse and connect smart-charger to battery during troubleshooting sessions. And keep battery on charger constantly until you get bike running.

3. disconnect spark-unit and re-measure resistance to ground of each of stator coils. They may be bad from overheating and melting insulation off, causing shorts

4. Did you measure coil primary/secondary impedance with coils disconnected?

5. Where are you measuring 2-3v drop after turning on power? Right after kill-switch? Or at coils? This is bad wiring problem! Somewhere between battery and test-point, you've got frayed wires, or shorted power-wire to ground, or corroded terminals in connectors. Changing to stick-coils won't fix this, they too will get 2-3v less than battery.

To find problem, start at where you measured 2-3v drop. Then work upstream on blk/wht wire to next junction. Measure power on each side of that connector. Still low for both? Then work upstream to next connector and measure both sides. At some point, you'll have full battery-voltage on one side, and lower 2-3v drop on other. That means you've got corroded or loose terminals in that connector. Take it apart and look at metal surfaces. Clean off corrosion with this:
Then after cleaning and re-connecting, measure voltage before and after connector to verified you've fixed it. Sometimes, female terminal has lost its spring strength and doesn't clamp down enough. Can usually reach in with needle-nose pliers and squeeze sides of terminal closer together for more clamping force.

Did you ever find wiring-diagram?

 

I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram, but have tested the pick up coils with them disconnected from the spark unit and they test correctly and as far as i can tell I've checked the bl/w wire at every connection and it's the same all the way through , but i haven't tried to squeeze the female side of the connectors to make sure i have a solid connection... I'll try that ! Thanks a ton Brother i really appreciate your help, this thing has been driving me CRAZY !! LOL

 

Also the battery voltage before anything is on is around 12.5 with it on is around 11 - 11.5 at the bl/w wire is around 10.4 and I also have the same voltage on the other side of the coil at the y/b wire ... and the stator coils test correct with the spark unit connectors disconnected... I'm at a loss unless it's the spark unit itself !!

 

Battery is very weak! 12.5v is about 20% charged and with drop to 10.4v, spark-unit won't be operational. Especially when cranking. Do this additional test:

2b. measure battery-voltage when cranking, volts = ???

All this effort is wasted because battery is weak. Before doing anything else, put battery on smart-charger for 24-hrs. Want it at least 13.5v fresh off charger. Then repeat measurements 1, 2, 2b



Here's battery on my VFR after 3-months winter storage (LiFePO4 battery):



After filling carbs, crank and after 3rd revolution, >VRRROOOMMM<. Meanwhile, battery-voltage doesn't drop much and spark-unit has full-power to drive coils.

 

[QUOTE=dannoxyz;1356524]Battery is very weak! 12.5v is about 20% charged and with drop to 10.4v, spark-unit won't be operational. Especially when cranking. Do this additional test:

2b. measure battery-voltage when cranking, volts = ???

All this effort is wasted because battery is weak. Before doing anything else, put battery on smart-charger for 24-hrs. Want it at least 13.5v fresh off charger. Then repeat measurements 1, 2, 2b



Here's battery on my VFR after 3-months winter storage (LiFePO4 battery):



After filling carbs, crank and after 3rd revolution, >VRRROOOMMM<. Meanwhile, battery-voltage doesn't drop much and spark-unit has full-power to drive coils.

[/QUOTE ]

I did the voltage drop test the other day and it was drastically lower like around 9.5 volts which I know isn't near enough to make the coils spark , You're absolutely correct about all the battery and all ... But what would cause the y/b and the b/y wires on the coils have the same voltage as the bl/w wires without turnin over the engine , or is that normal , i really don't know and then there is continuity at all 4 wires of the stator coils to the green wire but only when plugged into the spark unit... I figured that means that the spark unit is toasted... Thanks again for all Your help , I really do appreciate You fr !!

 

You'll have power on both terminals of coils because it's ground-switched circuit. When switch is open, there's no current flow and no voltage-drop. In this circuit, input and output terminals of bulb is exactly same as battery-voltage:



When switch is closed, then current flows and voltage on ground side of circuit drops to zero (supply side still at battery-voltage). Can only see that action with oscilloscope as grounding interval of spark-unit too short to measure with anything else.




Can also use solenoid-light to check for grounding-pulses from spark-unit. It has duration-extending circuity to keep light lit long enough for human eyes to see. Not as useful as oscilloscope, but very handy tool. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028QGU6C/
Hopefully you didn't make any alterations to circuits & wiring due to low battery. If you've replaced any parts, put ALL original parts back on bike. DON'T do ANYTHING else until battery is at least 13.5v and does not drop below 12v when cranking.