I can has popped fuse?
#1
#2
Never had any electrical issues with my bike. These old Hondas are pretty reliable in that department, mainly it's just the battery or reg/rec.
Have you done any electrical work on the bike recently?
If not, I'd think it's just a short somewhere, try tracing the wiring back from the ignition and starter switch looking for places where the insulation is worn.
Have you done any electrical work on the bike recently?
If not, I'd think it's just a short somewhere, try tracing the wiring back from the ignition and starter switch looking for places where the insulation is worn.
#4
If you are popping fuses, which fuse? That will tell you, where in the harness,
you should be looking. R/R failing or stator, while a valid issue in it's own right,
probably isn't the likely problem. I'm voting towards a hot>ground short. Is it immediate when you turn the key? Intermitent delay?
Good luck, Ern
you should be looking. R/R failing or stator, while a valid issue in it's own right,
probably isn't the likely problem. I'm voting towards a hot>ground short. Is it immediate when you turn the key? Intermitent delay?
Good luck, Ern
#5
Ern, the fuse that's pooping is the starter/ignition/acc fuse (10amp). Totally intermittent, I could go 10 miles and nothing then pop. Replace, 10 feet later, pop. Replace again, fine for 10+ miles. I ended up using a 25 amp fuse to get home. I tried a 20a fuse to get home, but that one popped immediately. With the 25a, I got home (10 miles) but I did pop the main 30a once with the 25a fuse in.
#6
#7
If you're blowing a fuse, you have a short. The next step is burnt wiring and a possible fire. A short occurs when current flows directly to ground without the resistance of a load. The wire leading from the positive terminal of the battery to the component has touched a ground wire or the frame. I agree with Mad, check the wires to stator, R/R, and engine-stop switch.
#8
If you're blowing a fuse, you have a short. The next step is burnt wiring and a possible fire. A short occurs when current flows directly to ground without the resistance of a load. The wire leading from the positive terminal of the battery to the component has touched a ground wire or the frame. I agree with Mad, check the wires to stator, R/R, and engine-stop switch.
Think I found it: I'm getting some minor resistance from the black and white wire on the rectifier the the ground plate on the back of the unit
#9
Well it wasn't the reg/rec and it wasn't the kill switch so now the fun of tearing into the harness begins (still going to check starter relay and alternator)
Edit: disconnected the starter relay and alternator and still getting continuity on the ignition wire and ground so now I get to tear into the harness
Fun Times....
Double edit: now I'm showing continuity between the black wire (ignition/starter) and the white/green stripe wire (turn signal/brake lights/horn)
That FJR in western MA is looking very tempting
Edit: disconnected the starter relay and alternator and still getting continuity on the ignition wire and ground so now I get to tear into the harness
Fun Times....
Double edit: now I'm showing continuity between the black wire (ignition/starter) and the white/green stripe wire (turn signal/brake lights/horn)
That FJR in western MA is looking very tempting
Last edited by malbojah; 10-03-2011 at 11:42 AM.