See, i had tried that initially, but wassnt getting anywhere, prolly tried about 10 times. I also wassnt getting the clutch to move fluid till yesterday either. I will try some more in a few hours since the hurricane has passed. Still got some rain and wind though.

 

Teflon tape around the clutch slave nipple threads before you try anything .....stops air
bubbles getting back in...... you'll be on a road to frustration without this !

and of course you need a clear visible line on the clutch slave nipple going to a 1/3 cup of fluid
and that line needs to be full and going "uphill" so bubbles bleed out and you can see them rising
and when it's all clear (good meaning all bled out ) too.

Then pump (hold down)......open slightly clutch slave nipple ...close

Then pump (hold down) .......open slightly clutch slave nipple ....close

Keep going until it gets firm (this will take quite a bit of time) and you'll
need a good supply of clean clear fluid going in the top master all the time
Do Not Let the top Master run "dry" or you are back to where you started
only worse ....more micro air bubble to flush out.

then leave over night with rubber band pulling clutch in (lets any micro
air bubbles out back up to the top master )

it's how I do it anyhow ...........a mity vac can help speed up the initial
bleed down and up through the clutch slave nipple

 

Ok, i tried that... And for 2 hours nothing! I was about to give up when i decided to start pumping fluid backwards through the system untill lots of fluid came out the banjo bolt by the master cyl. Then i connected it back to the master cyl. And viola it worked, i had resistance!!!! Hoooooray. I just got back from the first test ride since she went down over a week ago. Not sure if its me but she felt heavy, it could of been the wind as well. Or its just cause i dont want to low side again, oh well ill figure it out in a few days. Thanks for all the help. Mike

 

Glad you managed it in the end!

It can take an age to get pressure when the lines are empty.

These bikes are heavy, but if you've been down recently then she probably feels twice as heavy!!

 

Yea I figured that out the hard way, you barley get any movement if the lines are empty, and I think its way easier to fill it back wards. I also found out I need a left crank case cover and gasket. I dont see a crack, but I got a leak there, so I will go to my local salvage yard and pick one up and order a new gasket. Thanks again everyone.

 

I used a plastic syringe doing my breaks, something like this.... 100cc Plastic Syringe

Worked a treat. Just jam a clear plastic tube on the end & attach to yer nipple & start pumping.

Perhaps could be used on the clutch also ?

 

Yea, that would work, but I'm a redneck McGuiver... so I try n do stuff with what I have on hand LOL, but next time I will be sure to have that in my arsenal of tools.

 

Ok, bit of an update, I took the bike to work today, but my clutch is starting to slip. I think there may still be air in the system. I will bleed the clutch again in hopes that I dont have to replace my clutches. I have the handle wrapped to the bars tonight to see if that will help. Tomorrow I will pick up some DOT4 and bleed it properly. Also is ther a dye I can use to ensure the clutch was fully bled?

Mike

 

Air in the clutch line won't have anything to do with a clutch slipping Fox, the opposite in
fact it will get to be a pain in the azz trying to disengage/engage the clutch with air
in the line , sounds like slipping plates to me.... no auto energy conserving oil went into
it I hope ? !!! cuz that **** will make a clutch slip quicker than a monkey can scratch his ****

 

Hey:

You could use ATE SuperBlue, http://www.sparepartsnmore.com/oils-...ake-fluid.html, or go for one of these dyes but neither is cheap
https://www.riskreactor.com/Fluoresc...escent_Dye.htm or Spectronics Corp, Oil-Glo 50, a fluorescent dye that glows bright red.
http://www.ussap.com/Universal-UV-DY...ds_p_1058.html


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