Henry's new 1000F CCT
#31
06-26-2012, 12:49 PM
As I remember, my 1979 CB750F had a manual tensioner. It was just a spring loaded rod that pushed on the slipper. To adjust the CC tension, you rotated the engine backwards to take the slack out, backed off the locking nut, backed out the bolt to release the rod, retighten the bolt to secure the rod and then tighten the locking nut.
I just pulled the auto CCT on my Suzuki and put a manual one on. I turn the screw in that pushes the slipper, just until I don't hear the chain and then lock it down.
On the 750 it was done with engine off. On my Suzuki it's done with engine running. I like that because I have a feel for the tighness. I never liked doing it with engine off. I always thought I could get it to tight. But however the CCT on the 750 was in front of the engine and could not be done with it running because of the chain whipping and making the rod go in and out. The one I put on the Suzuki is noting more than a plate with a rounded-end-bolt that pushes the slipper. Because it's threaded, the chain won't whip.
I think that a properly adjusted CC will go a huge distance before needing to be adjusted. The auto adjusters, put more stress on the chain as they are always trying to tighten them. You don't need them tight, you need them just right.
I just pulled the auto CCT on my Suzuki and put a manual one on. I turn the screw in that pushes the slipper, just until I don't hear the chain and then lock it down.
On the 750 it was done with engine off. On my Suzuki it's done with engine running. I like that because I have a feel for the tighness. I never liked doing it with engine off. I always thought I could get it to tight. But however the CCT on the 750 was in front of the engine and could not be done with it running because of the chain whipping and making the rod go in and out. The one I put on the Suzuki is noting more than a plate with a rounded-end-bolt that pushes the slipper. Because it's threaded, the chain won't whip.
I think that a properly adjusted CC will go a huge distance before needing to be adjusted. The auto adjusters, put more stress on the chain as they are always trying to tighten them. You don't need them tight, you need them just right.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 06-26-2012 at 12:59 PM.
#32
06-26-2012, 09:50 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
I'm sure you see the reason for my concern, Henry, in that I don't want to put too much strain on the chain - just enough to stop the rattle - hard to tell what that would be though - if the spring isn't strong enough it won't stop the lash......s'pose it's trial and error for the most part.
And I agree, locking down the tensioner or the adjustable guide would defeat the object of having a spring in there to "ride" the chain - locking it down may cause irreparable damage, maybe even catastrophic malfunction and a broken chain - let's not even go there..........
May just be best to buy one from you..........
And I agree, locking down the tensioner or the adjustable guide would defeat the object of having a spring in there to "ride" the chain - locking it down may cause irreparable damage, maybe even catastrophic malfunction and a broken chain - let's not even go there..........
May just be best to buy one from you..........
I am curious as to why you would think that ?
Locking it down as I refereed to it , was only to lock the spring tension off from the chain after adjusting ...
The Spring in Henry's as I read it is constantly applying light preaure on the chain , but what I wanted to do was just like in all manual cam tensioners , which is to set the tension at service time only ... and lock it off ..
Why would that cause " irreparable damage, maybe even catastrophic malfunction and a broken chain" ?
I am with Tim on this point ....
You don't need them tight, you need them just right.
As I said , I see no reason for taking a chance at redesigning the wheel .... so to speak .... Henry's ripper setup I feel, is a great basis for a lockable one too ...
I think on this topic , it is rather important to make all the issues around cam tensioners rather clear , so perhaps some of our uninitiated CBR engine
builders get as many of the facts right ...
Wouldn't want everyone ripping in to have a go at making a version of one of these rather technical pieces of kit that Henry has developed and in the process , performing homicide on there cam chains now would we :-)
cheers :-)
#33
07-09-2012, 04:33 PM
#35
07-14-2012, 01:28 PM
Good luck matey.
Here's some info I gave Sebasitionbear which you and others may find helpful.
Clevis joint and male end. Buy a pin too. I went for a pair of ø6mm threaded end which were 12 mm thick. The fork clevis will need to be filed down to fit inside the tensioner body. If I remember it's between 10.5 & 11mm. Countersink the outside edges of the pin hole, cut the pin to length (=thickness of clevis joint which you've just filed down) and plain the ends of the pin on both ends to effectively ensure it won't come out. Oh, and you need to file off the corners of the male joint to allow it to bend through more than 90º.
Metric linkages - Springfix
just a shade under 2K miles on the prototype now and still she's quiet as a mouse at all speeds and most importantly, when cold. I still smile.
Here's some info I gave Sebasitionbear which you and others may find helpful.
Clevis joint and male end. Buy a pin too. I went for a pair of ø6mm threaded end which were 12 mm thick. The fork clevis will need to be filed down to fit inside the tensioner body. If I remember it's between 10.5 & 11mm. Countersink the outside edges of the pin hole, cut the pin to length (=thickness of clevis joint which you've just filed down) and plain the ends of the pin on both ends to effectively ensure it won't come out. Oh, and you need to file off the corners of the male joint to allow it to bend through more than 90º.
Metric linkages - Springfix
just a shade under 2K miles on the prototype now and still she's quiet as a mouse at all speeds and most importantly, when cold. I still smile.
#36
07-14-2012, 08:19 PM
#37
07-14-2012, 09:19 PM
Maybe when all this is resolved - we do a bulk order of all the parts - conduct a "Ride-IN" and run a "Cam Chain & Tensioner Swap Party" here in Victoria and invite all Aussies with CBR1000Fs - we do all bikes on the same day, have a BBQ after and get a "face to face" with all forum members here.
Last edited by Naga_Thai; 07-15-2012 at 05:38 PM.
#38
07-14-2012, 10:29 PM
Super Moderator
Hi Al and all Aussies,
Maybe when all this is resolved - we do a bulk order of all the parts - conduct a "Ride-IN" and run a "Cam Chain & Tensioner Swap Party" here in Victoria and invite all Aussies with CBR1000Fs - we do all bikes on the same day, have a BBQ after and get a "face to face" with all forum members here.
Maybe when all this is resolved - we do a bulk order of all the parts - conduct a "Ride-IN" and run a "Cam Chain & Tensioner Swap Party" here in Victoria and invite all Aussies with CBR1000Fs - we do all bikes on the same day, have a BBQ after and get a "face to face" with all forum members here.
I'm inCheers. SB
#40
07-18-2012, 07:48 PM
Super Moderator
Hi Al and all Aussies,
Maybe when all this is resolved - we do a bulk order of all the parts - conduct a "Ride-IN" and run a "Cam Chain & Tensioner Swap Party" here in Victoria and invite all Aussies with CBR1000Fs - we do all bikes on the same day, have a BBQ after and get a "face to face" with all forum members here.
Maybe when all this is resolved - we do a bulk order of all the parts - conduct a "Ride-IN" and run a "Cam Chain & Tensioner Swap Party" here in Victoria and invite all Aussies with CBR1000Fs - we do all bikes on the same day, have a BBQ after and get a "face to face" with all forum members here.
Mr Squiggle's blackboard with what is needed for this mod
Hurry up - YouTube
He was a very grumpy blackboard!
Cheers, SB
