Thanks for all the tips.
Kiwi, awesome tip and followed it to the letter.


The brush handle and small block of wood allowed the pistons to ease out and maintain pressure for each.I wrapped some electrical tape around the nozzle to help hold pressure.


Once out this far, they were loose enough to remove.
I have all new parts on the way, including master rebuild kit.
The oil was milky tan color and nasty.

 

Umm those puppies look nicely gunked up ... Good job man.

It's a 2 1/2 hour ride down to Stafford Springs from here if the
weather improves from tonight (torrential downpours) I 'm on the road

 

Stafford springs raceway site has the info.
I will be there by noon or so.

Is there an advantage to the suggested replacement of the front brake lines using 2 home runs rather than the connector pipe?

Anyone use the power bleeder from Harbour Freight?

i'm alone most of the time working on this think, so it looks like it may be key to bleeding the system.

 

I have done this on my '87. It gives each caliper more fluid. SS brake lines let more pressure to the caliper, better stopping.

 

Do I order based on length? Suggestion on company?

Bud

 

Take a piece of string and run it through the routes and then measure that for lengths.

If you order 'kit-specific' for your bike they'll take care of that concern.

Note, that since there are TWO hoses connected to the master-cylinder, that you now
need a double-banjo bolt and 3 crush-rings. Do NOT re-use crush-rings, if you have
torqued them down, replace them for any re-assembly. They are only designed for one
use, and you risk tinny-weinie, "pull your hair out" air-leaks if you do re-use them.

As far as brand, SS hoses are state-of-the-art, any is as good as any other at the
street level. Even for track applications weight is the only defining characteristic,
really. Go for the pricing as your major criteria, for any but the most demanding
applications.

 

Right on the money Ern as always

Bud , not sure about SS in CT Sunday yet

 

When I bought my SS lines I bought the ones that were for my bike. Everything was included.

 

Ok guys,
parts came in. put the left side together and back on the bike. Pulled left side and the pistons are not moving. 120lbs of air psi, soaked in penetrating oil.
Tapped them with a block of wood to jolt them a little. Nothing.

Any ideas? heat with a torch? Maybe get the bore to expand a little? Remove the rear wheel line and connect it to push them out?
WTF over?

 

You can try a couple of blocks thru the pad area and behind. Use 2 C-clamps and try squeezing them IN to break the freeze off, and then, try the hydrallic line hooked up to push them out. Wrap them in a towel of you are putting that kind of pressure on them, to prevent them flying loose when you do get them broke free.

I'd be cool with the heat idea, not sure which expands more the steel piston or the aluminum caliper, might make them tighter. A more experienced hand might weigh-in on that idea. ;-)

If all else fails, you can pick up a new set for about $45 on e-bay, might even have decent pads, as a bonus.

Good luck, Ern