Ok,
so front wheel barely spins. Took off calipers and the pistons are frozen solid. The bleeder looks like its got brake fluid that has turned to solid packed into bleed hole. Fluid is multi color brown. Bad scene boys.

Questions: (not seen in how to
How to pull pistons without damaging them?

Lube them once cleaned? with what?

Pins that sit in rubber boots: Lube these?

Good place to buy a seal kit for this project?

Any other thoughts, warnings?

Thanks guys!
Bud

 

Pull 'em off Bud , use compressed air to push out the pistons , grab some seals
@ cheapcycleparts or what ever your favorite supplier is. clean everything thoroughly
with brake cleaner, might as well pull the master apart too while you are at it and
clean it putting a new kit in it as well , so as to have have everything with a 100%
new parts and fluid. Not as bad a job as you think.. I'd say you'd handle it no problem my friend


EDIT

Reference page for parts for the job

9 & 19 being your seals

Re-Edit Brake Master Kit Ebay

Good Saturday mornin' job

 

Is wheel bearing grease ok for the pins and rubber boots, or white lithium?

Thanks for the quick response!

Going to Stafford Springs for the swap meet?

 

All I use is plain old brake grease, the same can has lasted through 4 bikes.
Be sure and pack the rubber boots that cover the hanger bolts.
When using compressed air to extract the pistons, wrap the caliper in a towel.
They can pop out and launch across the room. Only funny if it happens to your buddy.
Check the pads out as well, while you're in there.

Also, check that the 'sieze' hasn't warped the rotors. Dial-mic is best/easiest but laying it on a
flat plate of glass works. Run a feeler guage around edge to find high spots. Thickest guage that will
slip under edge anywhere around the rim is 1/2 the run-out.

Ern

 

light wipe of synth lube is better .... I use MotorKote a buddy of mine in
Indiana sent me ........ guys like Kilgoretrout like WD .... hell I think he even cooks with it.

Thing about putting grease on is it attracts dirt a lot more than a light lube would imo.

Stafford Springs eh .....hmmmmm not sure , kids soccer tournament
this weekend ............ but maybe ...... let ya know later

You going for sure Bud ?


Good point on the checking the disks Ern ! .... indeed might well be overheated and warped.... hopefully not tho' !

 

Just my 2c worth.
You may find that one piston blows out quicker than the other so be ready to block that one so the other has to move or you may well be stuck with one piston out and the other still stuck in the caliper Clean everything with a BRAKECLEANER or meths(but dont drink too much) Install your new seals into the caliper and smear the seals with a good quality RUBBER GREASE available from most autoparts outlets either in a pot or a small squeeze sachet which is heaps for the calipers on a bike.
Very carefully ease the thoroughly clean piston through the outer seal using a blunt rounded hook and wriggle the piston to carefully push it back into the caliper body.Repeat 4 times per caliper. Obviously while things are apart remove the bleed nipple and make sure it is clear and free in its thread (its a bitch when you snap one when its time to bleed the brakes)
The main thing is to be methodical and to only use brake/rubber lubricants dont be tempted to use silicon lube as it it too slippery for use in brake systems and will cause you grief in the long run.
Hope this is of some help.

 

R,
You can push the pistons out using the brake lever if you have the right set up.
With callipers similarly set up on both sides i.e. wheel removed, callipers supported by wire at a similar height you can place wooden blocks between the calliper body and piston and pump all of them out to the same distance. Keep changing the packers (wooden or whatever you have) until they get right to the end of their limit in the cylinders and you'll be able then to take each one out by hand, assuming one of them has not been literally welded in place. Hydraulic pressure will be 100 times more powerful than compressed air ever can and you've already got the force application set up without doing anything else, the brake lever.
Sure you're going to get brake fluid everywhere (did I mention having a good drip tray under each calliper)?
Copper grease. The only thing that I use on brake parts, once they been thoroughly cleaned.
Piston seals, you may as well buy them from a Honda dealer. One thing they're not too pricey for.
If the pistons themselves look at all iffy or pitted change them too. Again not that expensive if you shop around.
Everyone else has offered good advice. Filter and fly. Spend a day at it. Safeguard your life correctly.

 

If you are going to do the calipers and the master might as well do the lines too. SS lines are cool.

 

yeah Indy if I was replacing with SS I'd run unsplit dual lines up the master too !

 

Going Sunday for sure.
I need more projects to obsess over...lol.
Looking for a cb750 to do a cafe project, another Rokon would be cool as well.