Electrical Issue or something else???
#11
Hello all,
After two weeks working on my bike i thought it would be great to get to ride it. It started fine, stayed idle for few minutes, turned off, let it cool a few min then turned it back on just fine. Took off then at a stop sign i lost balance and slowly let it dropped then it didn't want to start. I had to get a jumped start then it did right away. I drove back home, check the battery with a multimeter and got readings of 10.80V. I got it to start again by jump start check battery voltage and it was slowly decreasing by .2 units however then rev up and voltage would increase dramatically to 12 V then drop down. I turned it off to tried to start it again but nothing but the clicks coming from the starter cilinoid then it completely drained. Check voltage again and it was at 10.8V.
I left it sitting there and when i came back it did not wanted to start not even with a jump start. I let the cables connected a few min then it started by also pressing the throttle to give it some gas. I checked voltage 10.6V and slowly going down. Rev it up it went all the way to 12V then drop down. Turned it off and it won't start again. Battery was at 10.3V so i took it off and let it charge at a rate of 2amps so hopefully it;s fully charged.
This is a brand new battery. Could it be that is faulty? It shouldn't drain its voltage this quick. Do i have a short somewhere causing the battery be drained? I installed H4 headlights, are they too strong for the bike so i should go with EOM light bulbs?
Some post i read my suggest rectifier is faulty but if when i rev up and see voltage being increase in the batter, wouldn't that show that the rectifier it's doing its job? I'm new a bikes so please advise. If you have questions so you can better assist me please let me know as well.
After two weeks working on my bike i thought it would be great to get to ride it. It started fine, stayed idle for few minutes, turned off, let it cool a few min then turned it back on just fine. Took off then at a stop sign i lost balance and slowly let it dropped then it didn't want to start. I had to get a jumped start then it did right away. I drove back home, check the battery with a multimeter and got readings of 10.80V. I got it to start again by jump start check battery voltage and it was slowly decreasing by .2 units however then rev up and voltage would increase dramatically to 12 V then drop down. I turned it off to tried to start it again but nothing but the clicks coming from the starter cilinoid then it completely drained. Check voltage again and it was at 10.8V.
I left it sitting there and when i came back it did not wanted to start not even with a jump start. I let the cables connected a few min then it started by also pressing the throttle to give it some gas. I checked voltage 10.6V and slowly going down. Rev it up it went all the way to 12V then drop down. Turned it off and it won't start again. Battery was at 10.3V so i took it off and let it charge at a rate of 2amps so hopefully it;s fully charged.
This is a brand new battery. Could it be that is faulty? It shouldn't drain its voltage this quick. Do i have a short somewhere causing the battery be drained? I installed H4 headlights, are they too strong for the bike so i should go with EOM light bulbs?
Some post i read my suggest rectifier is faulty but if when i rev up and see voltage being increase in the batter, wouldn't that show that the rectifier it's doing its job? I'm new a bikes so please advise. If you have questions so you can better assist me please let me know as well.
this is the connector you have to see. clean and connect again.
Ride Safe
#13
Thanks. I changed this 30A fuse as it blew a few weeks back when i friend of mine tried to jump start my bike and connected the wires on the wrong end. Positive on negative and negative on positive, he did not realized he did this and he kept trying and trying until i noticed it. He was also trying to jump start it with his car running which i now know you should not.
#14
Thanks for your input.
#15
Have your battery "load tested" - sound like you may have one suspect cell.
At 5000RPM you should have 13.5-15V going in - if not, I still suspect the regulator
How often do EOM rectifier fry?
A lot more often than replacement ones which are better engineered and have better heat dispersion properties (like big cooling fins)
At 5000RPM you should have 13.5-15V going in - if not, I still suspect the regulator
How often do EOM rectifier fry?
A lot more often than replacement ones which are better engineered and have better heat dispersion properties (like big cooling fins)
#16
Clean it with air can spray? I've read some other post that i can use WD40, is that ok to use? I don't want to burn or fry the wire.
Thanks!
#17
#18
Indiana, it was really a friend who did this. Even last night i kept reminding him about plugging them correctly he kept forgetting. I caught him like 2-3 times before doing the same mistake. Now i know not to trust him to do this anymore.
So your verdict is that the battery is fried? or it just needed to be fully charged? would plugging them the connectors when jump start cause any damaged to the battery? Should i replaced it? Some thoughts it was the rectifier earlier today?
So your verdict is that the battery is fried? or it just needed to be fully charged? would plugging them the connectors when jump start cause any damaged to the battery? Should i replaced it? Some thoughts it was the rectifier earlier today?
#19
#20
i will check and replace that fuse with a new one. I used the spare fuse that came with the bike i assume since it looked really old.
Clean it with air can spray? I've read some other post that i can use WD40, is that ok to use? I don't want to burn or fry the wire.
Thanks!
Clean it with air can spray? I've read some other post that i can use WD40, is that ok to use? I don't want to burn or fry the wire.
Thanks!
if you want to see if your RR is good try this high beam on bike running at 5k rpm multimeter and read volts in battery if is higher then 13.8v is okay.
if not remove the left fairing and you will have 2 connectors one is white with 3 yellow wires disconnect the connector put engine at 5 krpm you have to read AC volts not DC +- 40 to 70V in all 3 yellow wires. black wire of multimeter to the ground of bike and red wire of multimeter to yellow.
if the volts are okay then find the other connector is a white connector with 4 wires 2 greens and 2 reds disconect the connector and read DC Volts black wire of multimeter to greens and red wire of multimeter to red. at 5 krpm you will have 14v, if you have 14V DC at 5krpm RR is okay, if your yellow AC Volts fail your stator are burn.
Look if the 2 white connectors are okay sometimes they melt a little and star to make a bad connection.
Last edited by mikaspt; 07-18-2012 at 04:46 PM.