Took the battery in to test and it came back with good battery. Fully charged (of course since I charged it last night) and well above CCA the label on the battery says 220 and the report they gave me said 440. I don't know what that means. The guys at advance said it may be a short somewhere if the battery drains often but he does not know anything about motorcycle so I guess I check the R/R. Any other suggestion...please help I want to be able to ride it without worrying to carry jumper cable

 

Back in the garage. I will do both test and update with results. Battery test from advance auto parts came back with "battery is good". Any pics of the connectors and how to connect them with the multimeter would be great as I'm not familiar with bikes or electricity testing. I just know how and barely use the multimeter

 

I will try to take pictures of connectors but only i can take it in weekend because i will have to remove my fairings etc.
see this video so you can learn what you have to check

This is the connector you have inside left fairing bellow the fuse box

 

i write a error in my test explanation, in 3 yellow test the black and red wires from multimeter are connect between yellow wires because AC dont have negative and positive so in my replay i type Put multimeter to AC Volts connecto blak wire from multimeter to ground " NO NOT TO GROUND CONNECT TO ONE OF THE YELLOW WIRE" and the red wire of multimeter to another yellow wire. if read at 5 Krpm +- 40 to 70 the stator is good.

 

I understand the not taking the fairing out, I took all of mine last week to get some work on it as well and I know how cumbersome it can be so no worries. I'll watch the video though.
Is this image a regulator/rectifier? If it's then It doesn't look like mine. Also my rectifier is located in the back so in the left side behind the battery I have to remove the taillight fairing. If its not the regulator then I'll take off the left cowl fairing.

 

Thanks for te quick response and finding of the type otherwise I'd been here all night...

So I ran some test for the rectifier if it charges at 3k rpm. I don't think this is supposed to happen:
Based 12.3 high beam
Rev to 3k
After a min or 2 went up to 13
Rev to 4k
Increased to 13.3
Rev to 5k
Then drop to 12.5
Turned it off and now 12.6v

Second try
Base 12.6 high beam on
some hesitation to start, I gave it some gas and it started
Went turn the key on voltage drop to 12.1

@3k
12.3
@4k
12.3
@5k
12.3

Shut the engine off then base voltage was 12.1 but the radiator fan was running*
Turn off the ignition key then voltage *back to 12.5

Third try*
hesitation again
Gave it gas then it started
Base 12.1 high beam

@3k
12.1
@4k
12.1
@5k
12.1

Shut off*
Voltage 12.4

Fourth try
Switch on
Voltage 12
Click start button
Starter cylinoid Clicks as it tries to start voltage drops to 11.4 while this is happening
Give it gas voltage back to 12.1 and it started
Voltage after all this is 12.4V the report form advance auto part said battery was charged at 12.7v

 

Let me relate an experience I had - I had an RR go bad on a bike with a pretty new
battery - it cooked that pretty new battery.

Only remedy was a new RR & a new MotoBatt, never been a problem since - 3 year ago

A bad RR will screw up a perfectly good battery - been there

 

Thanks Sprock! I'm sold with the rectifier being the culprit. Hopefully that's the problem and i will finally be able to drive it. I will check ebay for a rectifier. I just bought this bike from a friend and i'll i've done is work on it not really getting much excitement with it!!! Thanks all for your assistance and patience. I appreciate it.

 

I know most people and many shops install car batteries from the rack, and many motorcycle shops install the battery after adding the acid. But if they read the instructions, they would see that the battery should be charged for 12 or 24 hours before using.

 

Which of these rectifier do you recommend? 1990 Honda Hurricane 1000 CBR1000F Rectifiers / Regulators - BikeBandit.com