It's normal - it's also a good check to see that the battery is charging when the lights get brighter as you rev the bike.

^ +1 and a reminder to keep moving.

My theory is when you insist on keeping a dead or dying battery in the bike
it first beats the hell out of the R/R and then the next down the line is the stator
windings, once the R/R gets nicely cooked up first.

Change your battery every 2 years (wet type) 3 1/2 years sealed AGM or GEL and the
R/R will keep on going ....... is what I think.

Anybidy think this makes sense ?? ....... or will Trouts bike go up in smoke soon enough (hopefully) :D

These post have me paranoid on the R/R. I think I am going to order the electrex from the UK, that seems to be the way to go. Not having any problems but my rides are typically all day in the mountains around here - you can end up a long ways from anywhere. Of course pushing is not so much a problem,depending on which side of the mountain you are on :icon_nut:
Seriously, My bike has ~25 k on it and I notice I have to fill the 2 year old battery up occasionally, part of my pre-ride check.
Now the question is related to having to re-wire the electrex in. Is there a how to on that? I'm good with my hands ,but figure there'll only be one chance to get it right with uncertain but prolly disastrous consequences.

[ ] A-Makes a lot of sense
[ ] B-Makes little sense
[ ] C-Changing a perfectly good batteries is costly
[ ] D-What in gods name has Trout done to you? (it would be funny however)
[x] E-Both C and D apply

grendl, there is a lot of info. Check the How To section first.

Now the question is related to having to re-wire the electrex in. Is there a how to on that? I'm good with my hands ,but figure there'll only be one chance to get it right with uncertain but prolly disastrous consequences.

It's really easy. First take a pic of your current wiring with your camera. Follow the colours as in the original plug unit. The yellow stator wires can be connected in any order to any 3 yellow wires from the R/R, so no problem. The earth wire goes to the frame. Red to red, black to black etc.
You will need longer mounting bolts for the Electrex unit. It's quite a bit bigger due to the cooling fins.
Takes about 15 mins and you're ready to go. :)

Is this a direct plug in? It looks like it has the proper connection block and bolts directly on. I'd rather spend a little more $$$ for dependability and not be cutting into things.

I feel the same way TimBucTWo. I dont like modifying original wiring unless I have to. I think if I could do it over again, I would buy an OEM unit. Anyway, the damage is done now! Cut my factory plug off yesterday and wired in the Electrex unit. Rode it to work today, and everything was good! I checked the electrex unit yesterday with the volt meter and they work really good. Just wished it would have had an OEM harness plug.

Problem with mine, was that, when the R/R started failing, it toasted my bike's
connector. So what I did: Cut the connector off, added female bayonets to the
ends of my harness wires, individually. I then used heat-shrink, over top of them,
to insulate. It was simple after that, to plug each to it's respective spot in the
R/R's connector.

Here's a picture of the final result....

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net..._4859903_n.jpg

Ern

That right there may be a good reason to change it out with a good one rather than wait for it to fail and have a spare with you. The spare may not work road side if it toast your connector.