Yeah, I took my ignition for aesthetic reasons, but that wasn't necessary.

If you leave the ignition in place, then everything would still work as factory, except you could push a button instead of turning your key. (IE if you lost the FOB or your battery went flat you could still use the key) The kill/side stand/neutral/clutch switches all work as designed.

Basically you have a box that you feed power from the battery. The box normally sends a pulse of power out of one of it's wires when you press one of the buttons (press the lock button, it pulses 12v to trigger the door lock motor e.t.c) . It's easy to make that so it acts like an electric 'switch' so when you push a button it turns on, and when you push it again it turns off. you mount this box next to the battery, and then you use the on/off 'switch' output to feed power into the wires next to the battery going into the fuse box.

so, 2 terminals on the battery, tap into 2 wires just near the fuse box (the ignition and fan circuits are separate for some reason), some re-wiring to turn the keyless-entry box into a remote switch and Robert's your cousin's brother.

It's identical to the M-lock except instead of a RFID token you swipe near the sensor, you push the button. I was going to use RFID on mine, but couldn't find anything with enough range. You could build something like the M-lock for the same price of the keyless entry system if you would rather go that way.

Jarvid if you are interested I can do a write-up, I'll just buy a new kit (something more common on ebay) so the pictures are a little more relevant.

Tim.

 

Sounds good, piccies also tell a thousand words, keys are just a pain, a biometric thumb print reader would be good too, no fobs or anything! They are getting cheaper too.

 

Hell, I thought having an electric starter was pretty cool. No kicking.
I'll just use a key.