I've not spend any deal of time looking into de-linking the brakes, but what prevents you from just spliting the lines somehow so that you can still utilize both brake lines on each caliper? That way you wouldn't have to alter the calipers and would be able to return to stock if desired.

 

That sound like a better idea!!!! Can it be done?

 

Believe me, I have thought about de-linking in a way where I could go back if I wanted to. It just can't be done. You would still haveto take the secondary master cylinder out of service.

DANGER, DANGER...NOTE: If you tried to feed thefluid from the secondary master cylinderback to the front, the left caliper would comeup and in return applying more front break through the secondary master cylinder again and so on until the front wheel locked up without any lever or pedal and you would get hurt.

If you simply take the secondary master cylinder out of service and de-link without joining the three pistons you would only have the two outer pistons at best. For max stopping power you want all three pistons on all three calipers.

After de-linking I found that the bike stops better and I have the control on where I want the breaking going on. The breaking is more solid because you are not pushing all that fluid all over the bike in all those lines and you can get rid of those huge rubber hoses.

In rainy conditions, in a turn I can use rear only is an example of where I prefer the de-linked bike.

 

What about a compromise??

I have just bought some calipers of Ebay for $60 AUD so the cost shouldn't be to much of a problem.
What I am thinking is drill the front calipers and have then only actuated by the front. But retain the secondary Master cylinder. and disconect the rear.

This way when you squeeze on the front all 3 pistons come on as well as the rear.
But when you squeeze the rear only the rear comes on because the line that goes from the rear to the front is disconnected. If I am not mistaken this is how the BMW's and other makes work. Front activates both front and rear and rear only activates rear.

Also I was thinking that if I use braided lines for the front only it will mean the effect on the rear should be less.

 

Thanks for all your suggestions fellas. As usual the forum has been great.
I've talked to my mechanic about this and will print out your suggestions for him to think about. This, plus him being an ex-Honda mechanic, should do the trick. He owned a couple of 1000fs, and dropped the one with linked brakes at low speed!
Another problem withbrake mods might be insurance, if you *uck it up!
I'm going to go ahead with it, but I'll get the mechanic to do the job.
If I hate it I'll be searching ebay for $60 calipers too.
Dave.

 

Hey Trips, I don't think you can do that. To have the lever work only the front, you will need to take the secondary master cylinder out of service because it feeds the rear outer pistons.By drilling the fronts you would create more stopping power with all three instead of the outer two pistons and the left caliper would come up quicker and harder sending more juice to the rear than you may want by way of the secondary master cylinder. The only way I can see the system being modified is to disconnect the link between the front and rear making the breaking system like a normal motorcycle is set up like.