I have a '87 1000 and there is a lot of play in the clutch lever. I just did a semi clutch job on it. I didn't replace anything except the springs because I pulled it all out and everything plate was in spec when i measured them. The bike only has 25,000 miles on it, but it is 19 years old. What would take the play out of the clutch lever and make it grab a little "sooner" in the lever pull? Is there an adjustment somewhere? I'm wondering if I didn't tighten down the clutch sping bolts enough. I didn't have a torque spec for them and just turned them in the same amount all the way. I have been riding it like this for almost a 1000 miles now and I'm a little worried about the bolts being too loose and coming out. Any comments and advice would be great!!!


Thanks
Alex

 

Well, I have gotten 9 hits in almost 12 hours and no replys. I think it is time for a bump to try to stay noticed.

 

I took a quick look in the Honda manual but could not find any information if and where to adjust the cluch free play. If the handle grabs to late (towards the handle bar), it could be old fluid with air, water and other contaminations in the system. I would change the fluid and bleed the system if that hasn't been done yet. I'll look into the Haynes manual also tonight and report if there is something written about clutch adjustments.

The five clutch bolts shall be tightened 12 Nm/9 ft-lb

Have also checked in the Haynes manual now. I could not find any information about clutch free play adjustment. It appears as the hydrualic clutch is like hydualic brakes, which are not adjustable. If adjustment seems to be needed, it could indicate that something is wrong like bad fluid, sealings etc. Hopefully some more will spread light to this issue, I havn't own my CBR 1000 F for more than a couple of months.

 

I recently changed the clutch fluid.
I had some difficulty because there where bubbles in the fluid whatever what I did.
I came to the conclusion that the bleeding nipple was leaking air from the threads when open.
Therefore I locked the bleeding nipple whith the clutch handle fully pressed in regardless of the bubbles.
It works fine.
Maby if you still have problem you can put a distance somewhere.

 

Like R1000 states, the springs should be torqued down to 9 ft/pounds. That ain't much. I would go back in and loosen them and torque them down correctly.

 

sounds like that is what I am going to do. Man I hate to have to drain this expensive amsoil out just to retorque bolts. But I guess I could drain it into a clean container and reuse it. It only has like 1000 miles on it. What do you guys think.