Chain and Sprocket, Right Bar replacement
#1
Chain and Sprocket, Right Bar replacement
Hiya )
Just a quick question, just had my bike in the garage getting all the brake pads replaced and they noticed a couple of things with the bike:
1. Chain and Sprocket are coming to the end of their life.
2. Right hand bar is bent, and could trap your hand at full lock. ( Think happened as a result of a drop in icy weather during december )
Basically are the above problems difficult to rectify, and could an amateur mechanic such as myself be able to do them at home? Just concerned at how hard it is to get all the hardware off from the bar in order to replace it with a new one, and how hard it is likely to be to get the sprockets off.
Thanks
Kev.
Just a quick question, just had my bike in the garage getting all the brake pads replaced and they noticed a couple of things with the bike:
1. Chain and Sprocket are coming to the end of their life.
2. Right hand bar is bent, and could trap your hand at full lock. ( Think happened as a result of a drop in icy weather during december )
Basically are the above problems difficult to rectify, and could an amateur mechanic such as myself be able to do them at home? Just concerned at how hard it is to get all the hardware off from the bar in order to replace it with a new one, and how hard it is likely to be to get the sprockets off.
Thanks
Kev.
#2
RE: Chain and Sprocket, Right Bar replacement
Morning,
Sprockets are not too bad. Remove LHS fairing, and remove side stand and wiring, which will allow access to the casing hiding the front sprocket. There are 3 bolts to undo on this, all quite long, and individually sized, so be carfeul on locating them back in. The sprocket holds 2 bolts that mount an "alignment thing" to it. Remove these, and then the centre sprocket bolt. Mine was VVVVVV Tight, but shouldnt have been. Then off the sprocket. This will take about an hour and a half maybe. For the rear, Remove the wheel, which is easy, and then pull the carrier assembly out, this houses a large bearing along with the rear sprocket. The nuts are quite tight, so you will need to mount it in some kind of workbench assembly, (or at least I did) and then the sprocket simply pulls off. Take the opportunity to check the 3 rear bearings for any kind of wear / freeplay, and as they are only 12.99 for a complete set from wemoto.co.uk, worth replacing if in any doubt. If you are in any doubt as to how it looks, find the CBR manual in here for a free download, and print out the pages for use at the bike.
As to the bar, its easy too with just a pinch bolt at the top. Remember this houses the throttle cables....Again look in that free manual for the detail, but not at all difficult.
Ara
Sprockets are not too bad. Remove LHS fairing, and remove side stand and wiring, which will allow access to the casing hiding the front sprocket. There are 3 bolts to undo on this, all quite long, and individually sized, so be carfeul on locating them back in. The sprocket holds 2 bolts that mount an "alignment thing" to it. Remove these, and then the centre sprocket bolt. Mine was VVVVVV Tight, but shouldnt have been. Then off the sprocket. This will take about an hour and a half maybe. For the rear, Remove the wheel, which is easy, and then pull the carrier assembly out, this houses a large bearing along with the rear sprocket. The nuts are quite tight, so you will need to mount it in some kind of workbench assembly, (or at least I did) and then the sprocket simply pulls off. Take the opportunity to check the 3 rear bearings for any kind of wear / freeplay, and as they are only 12.99 for a complete set from wemoto.co.uk, worth replacing if in any doubt. If you are in any doubt as to how it looks, find the CBR manual in here for a free download, and print out the pages for use at the bike.
As to the bar, its easy too with just a pinch bolt at the top. Remember this houses the throttle cables....Again look in that free manual for the detail, but not at all difficult.
Ara
#3
RE: Chain and Sprocket, Right Bar replacement
Hi,
Forgot to add, remember you will need a chain splitting kit for this, or you can remove the whole swingarm assembly (I have done this to get it powder coated) Just use an angle grinder straight through the old one to get it off, and assemble the new one at 114 links including the soft link. (According to the honda manual), mine was set at 116, by someone prior to my ownership. Just be methodical, and save some money!!!
Ara
Forgot to add, remember you will need a chain splitting kit for this, or you can remove the whole swingarm assembly (I have done this to get it powder coated) Just use an angle grinder straight through the old one to get it off, and assemble the new one at 114 links including the soft link. (According to the honda manual), mine was set at 116, by someone prior to my ownership. Just be methodical, and save some money!!!
Ara
#4
Easy Peasy
Hello morpheous283
I have absolute confidence that these jobs can be done by yourself, my suggestion is to not plan anything else and set aside a weekend.
The job should only take about 30 Mins to take off the fairing and another 20 minutes to split the chain and drop the back wheel out , another 30 minutes take off the old sprockets and to fit the new ones, then you should put the wheel back on with the new sprocket and feed the chain through what should take another 30/45 Mins and then T break after T pop the fairing back on and make sure that everything is tickety Boo and tightened.
Don’t forget a few bolts on the sprockets need to be lock tightened and subsequently they can be a real bugger to get off so get your hands on a good quality correctly fiting Socket and T Bar/ratchet.
Don’t squeeze the clutch lever when the bikes final drive cover is removed, otherwise there’s a chance you could pop out the hydraulic clutch piston.
Don’t force anything "jiggle" things until they comply and take your time.
Within regards to the Bar end what is bent, losen off the throttle clamps etc and then un-bolt the bare end from the steering yoke, slip off the throttle and stuff and put them on the new bar end then tighten it all up and check if you need to use Lock Tight.
If you need a manual I saw a workshop PDF document for the CBR1000F that was around on this forum somewhere, I guess you can just use a keyword and search the forum for it, otherwise I can post it if necessary.
Yours Faithfully
Jim
I have absolute confidence that these jobs can be done by yourself, my suggestion is to not plan anything else and set aside a weekend.
The job should only take about 30 Mins to take off the fairing and another 20 minutes to split the chain and drop the back wheel out , another 30 minutes take off the old sprockets and to fit the new ones, then you should put the wheel back on with the new sprocket and feed the chain through what should take another 30/45 Mins and then T break after T pop the fairing back on and make sure that everything is tickety Boo and tightened.
Don’t forget a few bolts on the sprockets need to be lock tightened and subsequently they can be a real bugger to get off so get your hands on a good quality correctly fiting Socket and T Bar/ratchet.
Don’t squeeze the clutch lever when the bikes final drive cover is removed, otherwise there’s a chance you could pop out the hydraulic clutch piston.
Don’t force anything "jiggle" things until they comply and take your time.
Within regards to the Bar end what is bent, losen off the throttle clamps etc and then un-bolt the bare end from the steering yoke, slip off the throttle and stuff and put them on the new bar end then tighten it all up and check if you need to use Lock Tight.
If you need a manual I saw a workshop PDF document for the CBR1000F that was around on this forum somewhere, I guess you can just use a keyword and search the forum for it, otherwise I can post it if necessary.
Yours Faithfully
Jim
#5
RE: Easy Peasy
Here is the service manual
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~cbr...ice_Manual.pdf
To make it easier to remove the rear sprocket nuts crack them while the rear wheel is still on the bike.
As for the chain I was too povo to afford a riveter so I attached the chain using the clip master link and then rode the bike to the bike shop and paid them a 6-pack to put the rivet link on there.
I found I could undo the front sprocket without removing the fairing. I just undid the bolts on the bottom and it allwed me to pull the fairing of the bike enough.
Oh and dont forget to crack the front sprocket nut before removing the rear wheel.
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~cbr...ice_Manual.pdf
To make it easier to remove the rear sprocket nuts crack them while the rear wheel is still on the bike.
As for the chain I was too povo to afford a riveter so I attached the chain using the clip master link and then rode the bike to the bike shop and paid them a 6-pack to put the rivet link on there.
I found I could undo the front sprocket without removing the fairing. I just undid the bolts on the bottom and it allwed me to pull the fairing of the bike enough.
Oh and dont forget to crack the front sprocket nut before removing the rear wheel.
#6
RE: Easy Peasy
Thanks guys for all your help. I am going to try it the weekend after next, also found out I have a loose headlight so all fairings at the front are coming off so I can check the four retaining bolts. The right hand fairing is quite knarly as the bike had a spill in a previous life, but with ebay to the rescue, hopefully i'll have a much better condition one within the week )
Thanks for now and i'll let you know how I get on.
Kev.
Thanks for now and i'll let you know how I get on.
Kev.
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