Carb disassembly & sync
#12
Though you could have great fun playing with the mercury
It's fun to touch, too. And a small bottle full was like 15lbs. It was like a bottle of alien metal.. Coool!!
#13
Are you suggesting the use of unlawful narcotics?? You surprise me Sprock! Lets prescribe some hard drugs
I used to love rolling the stuff off the chem lab bench onto the floor , looked like mini explosions and I seem to remember you could do some cool stuff with magnets??
I used to love rolling the stuff off the chem lab bench onto the floor , looked like mini explosions and I seem to remember you could do some cool stuff with magnets??
#14
Mercury isn't responsive to magnets. I think you can run electricity through it and make it do some weird stuff, though.
Something that does respond well to magnets is ferrofluid. It's cool as hell. Ever seen it? It's basically liquid suspended iron.
Here are a couple vids....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SKVH...7378A1&index=4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUz1Z...eature=related
Something that does respond well to magnets is ferrofluid. It's cool as hell. Ever seen it? It's basically liquid suspended iron.
Here are a couple vids....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SKVH...7378A1&index=4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUz1Z...eature=related
#15
#16
I checked my local shops and the estimates ranged from $150.00 to $300.+.
I had rather do it myself and know what has/has not been done.
I purchased the Morgan because I heard horror stories about the liquid, mercury or what ever that manufacture uses, being sucked into the engine and damaging it. The Morgan used steel rods attached to springs and works great.
On this motor it is a pain to do the job, very difficult to get access to the vacuum points, but do-able.
Trout was a big help, thanks again.
I had rather do it myself and know what has/has not been done.
I purchased the Morgan because I heard horror stories about the liquid, mercury or what ever that manufacture uses, being sucked into the engine and damaging it. The Morgan used steel rods attached to springs and works great.
On this motor it is a pain to do the job, very difficult to get access to the vacuum points, but do-able.
Trout was a big help, thanks again.
#17
Any time, man.
You're right about the vac port location on these bikes. What a pain in the ****...
Even my longer needle nose pliers are a pain to get in there. You almost need long forceps or something.
Last time I synced them, I actually left the barb fittings screwed in where the plugs were, and then capped them. I don't know if it was the greatest idea, but it helps a little bit.
And you're right about the morgan carbtune. It's the best. Safe, easy, accurate. (and it saves you money the first time you use it)
You're right about the vac port location on these bikes. What a pain in the ****...
Even my longer needle nose pliers are a pain to get in there. You almost need long forceps or something.
Last time I synced them, I actually left the barb fittings screwed in where the plugs were, and then capped them. I don't know if it was the greatest idea, but it helps a little bit.
And you're right about the morgan carbtune. It's the best. Safe, easy, accurate. (and it saves you money the first time you use it)
#18
#19
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https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...routine-81729/
an older thread with some good vids posted by none other than Naga Thai
Basically drop the float bowls& clean , pull the mains and pilot jets and clean ,
pull the needle valves and clean, around front pull the pilot air screws and clean
- pull the top caps , pull slides and clean needles and carbon off slides -
with everything apart - seafoam spray and gentle compressed air -
(my preferred way of being thorough)
reassemble everything (maintaining cleanliness) .
Gently all the way in with the pilot air screws to a gentle stop then back out 2.5 turns
float bowls may need new gaskets or use Permatex #1 sealant to reuse older ones.
Check tank for rust - or you'll get to do this repeatedly until that issue if it exists gets
taken care of with a tank sealant 1st and adding a fuel filter if not already present is
always a good idea
Bench test by filling carbs with gas to check for leaks before installing on bike
(trust me - you should do this )
Sometimes the orings in the T's between the carbs etc harden and leak too something to
watch our for.
an older thread with some good vids posted by none other than Naga Thai
Basically drop the float bowls& clean , pull the mains and pilot jets and clean ,
pull the needle valves and clean, around front pull the pilot air screws and clean
- pull the top caps , pull slides and clean needles and carbon off slides -
with everything apart - seafoam spray and gentle compressed air -
(my preferred way of being thorough)
reassemble everything (maintaining cleanliness) .
Gently all the way in with the pilot air screws to a gentle stop then back out 2.5 turns
float bowls may need new gaskets or use Permatex #1 sealant to reuse older ones.
Check tank for rust - or you'll get to do this repeatedly until that issue if it exists gets
taken care of with a tank sealant 1st and adding a fuel filter if not already present is
always a good idea
Bench test by filling carbs with gas to check for leaks before installing on bike
(trust me - you should do this )
Sometimes the orings in the T's between the carbs etc harden and leak too something to
watch our for.
Last edited by Sprock; 07-24-2012 at 08:03 PM.
#20
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...routine-81729/
an older thread with some good vids posted by none other than Naga Thai
Basically drop the float bowls& clean , pull the mains and pilot jets and clean ,
pull the needle valves and clean, around front pull the pilot air screws and clean
- pull the top caps , pull slides and clean needles and carbon off slides -
with everything apart - seafoam spray and gentle compressed air -
(my preferred way of being thorough)
reassemble everything (maintaining cleanliness) .
Gently all the way in with the pilot air screws to a gentle stop then back out 2.5 turns
float bowls may need new gaskets or use Permatex #1 sealant to reuse older ones.
Check tank for rust - or you'll get to do this repeatedly until that issue if it exists gets
taken care of with a tank sealant 1st and adding a fuel filter if not already present is
always a good idea
Bench test by filling carbs with gas to check for leaks before installing on bike
(trust me - you should do this )
Sometimes the orings in the T's between the carbs etc harden and leak too something to
watch our for.
an older thread with some good vids posted by none other than Naga Thai
Basically drop the float bowls& clean , pull the mains and pilot jets and clean ,
pull the needle valves and clean, around front pull the pilot air screws and clean
- pull the top caps , pull slides and clean needles and carbon off slides -
with everything apart - seafoam spray and gentle compressed air -
(my preferred way of being thorough)
reassemble everything (maintaining cleanliness) .
Gently all the way in with the pilot air screws to a gentle stop then back out 2.5 turns
float bowls may need new gaskets or use Permatex #1 sealant to reuse older ones.
Check tank for rust - or you'll get to do this repeatedly until that issue if it exists gets
taken care of with a tank sealant 1st and adding a fuel filter if not already present is
always a good idea
Bench test by filling carbs with gas to check for leaks before installing on bike
(trust me - you should do this )
Sometimes the orings in the T's between the carbs etc harden and leak too something to
watch our for.
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