Here comes a short and quickanswer [&:]

Modern bikes respond very well to replacement of exhaust systems since the stock mufflers are very restrictive to meet noise and emission requirements. From a performance point of view this is to throw away about 10 hp on top and significant amount of midrange power and throttle response. It may not sound like a lot, but the experienced performance boost is far better than most people would believe by looking at the number since the engine will respond and pull much better. If you look into the last issue of Bike magazine you will see the typical change of power and torque curve if a bike is equipped with a slip-on system; i.e. adding new mid pipes and mufflers but keep the stock downpipes (headers) to keep cost down.

There are not a lot of slip-on systems to choose to the FJR 1300 but here are some links:

http://www.remus.at/php/index.php?cm...uctModel=40441

http://www.devilbikes.com/exhaust_pa...WhhJkZKUjEzMDA=

If it becomes actual to buy a system, check with Thomas.Broering@t-online.defrom which I have bought new systems for very competitive prices.

When the exhaust system is changed to be free flowing, the Air to Fuel ratio should be adjusted. It is not a must if you don’t replace the full exhaust system though. In case you want to optimize the performance you need a so called Power Commander unit for that, see http://www.tts-performance.com/catal...cdec94c1b138f4

If you look at http://motospeed.se and select Yamaha, FJR 1300 and select show details, you will find the prices in Sweden, usually about 3500 SEK.

The Power Commander unit needs to be loaded with a Fuel map which you can download from www.powercommander.com for free that will work quite OK, or leave the bike to a Dyno Center that will tune the bike on a test bench for about 2500 SEK. There are a lot of Dyno Centres around; you e.g. can go to Bike in Trollhättan or places in Gothenburg to get the bike tuned.

The first step would however be to just change the exhaust system to a slip-on and follow up the colour on plugs to check that the engine doesn’t run too lean. If that is enough, and it should be, you will save a huge amount of money by skipping the PC and the manual tuning.

I agree that model year 2004 and on seems to be the best FJR 1300 to go for. Older versions might need stiffer rear and front springs. Springs are however cheap if you want to upgrade a 2003 model.

The FJR 1300 can also be provided with premium fully adjustable shocks like you will find onhttp://www.hyperprousa.com

That, in combination with stiffer front spring, wouldprobably make the 2003 model handling even better than the 2004 chassie. I use the fully adjsustableHyperpro 041 rear shock on my Blackbird and it is a night and day difference to the stock unit. I also use stiffer front springs, but another brand though.

Hyperpro stiffer front and rear springs are only about 2000 SEK for the FJR 1300. Check with Franz Switzer email afsmotorparts@chello.nl
at http://www.afsmotorparts.nl for prices on Hyperpro products.

 

Get the ***** of your feet up on the pegs and carry your upper body weight there. In pretty short order your legs will become accustomed to this and all soreness will be gone. On a sportbike you shouldn't be leaning on the bars. If you'll do this it will stop the problem and the bike will handle better. No weight on the bars. More details in any sportriding book.

BTW, most bar risers are a patch to fix this problem. Sit it right and no more trouble.

 

I fully agree, if the wrists have to carry the weight of the body it doesn't help muchwhatever bike is used, and for sure it real bad for the handling of the bike if the bars are used foranything otherthan the necessary steering commands. Still, higher bars than normal on a typical sport bike,and aproper butt to peg distance, will increase the ridingcomfort a lot.

 

Peg lowering http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/inde...howtopic=32241

 

R1000,

You said that you just changed to a Blackbird? Is it a HUGE difference in power compared to the 1000F models? or about the same? Im thinkin of purchasing a Blackbird within the next few months and I was wondering how it would stack up to the 1000F.
Thanks



-1000FFreakyFast

 

Until recently I was thinking of upgrading to a Hayabusa. But I changed my mind because in order to go fast over a long distance you need protection from the wind. On the 1000Fwithout a touring windshield I could do 105mph before running into the "brick wall"of wind resistance. With a touring windshield Irun into the wall at 140 mph. Huge difference! Now neither the blackbird nor busaoffer aftermarket windshields with that kind of protection from the windlike the 1000F. Which means that I wouldnot be able to reallytap intothe power.Therefore the blackbird, no matter how much more powerful will notdo it cos I really wanna go fast for a long long time, without having tolayflat.

 

Check this thread
https://cbrforum.com/m_142747/tm.htm