Bike starting
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RE: Bike starting
I let the engine spinaround 1700rpmdirectly from start for about half a minute or whatever it takes to get the bike moving, and the choke leaver is disengaged as soon as possible (after 50 to 100 meters or so). The oil will warm up far quicker if the bike is driven. Then I let it cruise for a couple of minutes and keep it under 5 k rpm until fully warmed up. That will take about 10 km's. Some people let the bike warm up on fast idle, I don’t since thecylinder walls willthen be unnecessarywashed by gas. The important things are, like tour mechanic say, not to let the bike run on very low rpm cold, and that it is warmed up before gunned.
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#7
RE: Bike starting
Yes, it will for sure mess up the clutch! Even using "car oil" instead of oil recommended for motorcycles can mess up the clutch.
Theoretically you could take out the clutch plates, perhaps the whole basket, and then run the engine standing still, or, (not that I recommend any of this!) push it up in speed and then put it in gear, with the "slick 50" additive in the oil, and then after you feel it has been "coated", flush out the oil with the additive with new oil and also replace that oil with new when having reinstalled clutch. As you can imagine, this will be expensive and much work effort and will probably not be noticeable in wear or fuel consumption.
Theoretically you could take out the clutch plates, perhaps the whole basket, and then run the engine standing still, or, (not that I recommend any of this!) push it up in speed and then put it in gear, with the "slick 50" additive in the oil, and then after you feel it has been "coated", flush out the oil with the additive with new oil and also replace that oil with new when having reinstalled clutch. As you can imagine, this will be expensive and much work effort and will probably not be noticeable in wear or fuel consumption.
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