I just found this link- Yuasa technical information.
Excellent manual and well worth a read.

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf

 

Thanks Henry, that is EXACTLY what I was talking about to the last detail... spark, spark change, car battery, same trickle amps, everything.

As for the low idle she is still doing it (not as bad) but is running like a dream over 3k (in choke and at speed) I AM LOVING THE NEW RIDE!!!! She is starting and running perfectly otherwise.

Thanks a ton about the throttle set screw, I was rattling my head on which direction it should be turned (being I forgot which way turned it the 1st time). I kinda figured it wouldn't mess with mix but wasn't 1000% on that. What I was doing wrong and will adjust when I get home today is the direction. I am sure I was going COUNTER clockwise the last time I played with it and was confusing myself . And in turn was making a bad situation worse, hell surprised the old girl would idle at all.

Thanks!

 

You're not kidding Henry, that is good reading. It puts to rest some of the myths that people talk about. Great find.

Well I did a little poking around and found an updated version.

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2009.pdf

In fact they have quite a few documents available here.
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs

 

Correct me if I'm wrong Henry, but you're still using a standard reg rec ? If so, don't forget that the bike gets no charge through to the battery below 3000RPM, so even though you may have had her running, the battery was draining the whole time...........that would explain the weak spark as well.Add to that the cold in the UK.............
One last issue on cold - I was watching a video made by a friend of mine who went to Antarctica to the SANAE base _ asked him why his "segments" were so short.
He explained that the batteries would only last about 2-3 minutes tops before failing DUE TO THE COLD.
He said you had to keep the batteries inside your clothing if you wanted them to even give you 2-3 minutes.........their temps are very similar to those that some of you experience in the States..........(they were there in the summer too.............a warm day is about -10C)

Cold will kill a battery faster even than heat. It may recover, but often a cell will fail, and that'll be that......

FWIW

 

This is what I replaced with this last summer ($78 shipped) + I keep it on my Battery Tender full time, as I have for a few batteries before this one giving me an extended life for about 4 years each, when not riding. Did not pay the price on Battery Tender site though (just posted the link tp show what I use).

http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...X14AHL-BS.html

http://batterytender.com/motorcycle/...-at-1-25a.html

 

You've got me intrigued Pete. Is there a non standard R/R? If so, what are the benefits?
I am still not sure about your comments regarding the charge not coming through below 3K RPM. I've not actually had time to put a meter across the battery to check your theory but I have to say I'm not convinced.
With the engine running and lights on I would say the alternator starts to kick out a good charge at around 1800 RPM as the lights brighten slightly at this speed. No difference at all above that point no matter how fast the revs.
When running at low speed in traffic with the cooling fan going you can hear the difference in its speed at about the 1800 RPM mark too.

I will check it out more accurately next time I've got time to play but for now she's on the road every day during the week and the new battery hasn't faltered.

Yeah, cold and batteries. I know this. I used to have a girl friend who worked for various TV channels. We've shot video in many different environments from 45C down to -10C. When it was cold she needed three times the quantity of batteries to guarantee the shoot. My job was to make sure they were all charged and ready to go. Failure meant possible death or at very least multiple testicular injuries.

 

Is there a non standard R/R? If so, what are the benefits?

Some of us use the replacement reg/rec from www.electrex.co.uk

Advantages
1 Charges from around 1200-1400RPM which the std unit won't do. Std unit only gives full charge around 3000RPM
2 Has a huge heatsink attached which reduces overheating. Std unit has no heatsink
3 12 Month guarantee. No guarantee on reg/rec from Honda even if it's doa
4 Electrex unit is cheaper by quite a bit
5 Postal time from Japan is around 3 weeks, electrex is about 3 days in the UK.

They stand by the product.Ask michaelparks - he has one too.

Hope this helps.

 

A work of art it is! I love it. Just make sure have a couple bolts that are a bit longer and same thread pattern. The factory ones are too short. Well worth the money! I think it took about 5 or 6 days to get to the US.

 

Cheers Guys, That's one for a future shopping list.
Have either of you noticed any differences in battery life or output since fitting them?

 

Pete, the link you posted didn't quite work.

This is more accurate

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rr23-...100-598-0.html

or just this to get to the electrex site

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/