Can anyone post how to disassemble the alt damper, and any fixes to stop it jumping and sounding like a machine gun when the starter is pressed?
I am looking at the CMSL exploded image of the alternator and part 8 seems to be replacement spring washers which I assume go inside the damper? Any ideas fellas?
Has anyone looked at the option of welding the damper together?

 

I am tempted to weld mine together...

 

Looking at the schematic on CMSL at part #8. The Chain Guide tensioner, if that is correct, then you need the whole part. There are no spring or washers replacement for that part. I just replaced mine on my 1988.
Sadly, you will have to split the engine to get to it.

 

Hey bonester,

"I am tempted to weld mine together...".....only if you are a gambler.

"The starter damper is there because the crankshaft is connected to alternator shaft via chain. To have security there must be a clutch. Imagine what could happen if the alternator rotor jams for some reason - the crankshaft would be seriously injured if there would not be clutch." on another thread. There was a thread with the instructions on how to replace the damper in situ. I successfully did this, so did many others. Unfortunately the detailed info has been lost.

As Clint said "are you feeling lucky?"

Cheers

 

Lucky? Not often. Damper is NLA now so have to look at repair options- don't want to pay $300 for a damper anyway. Honda Australia won't discuss the damper with me. I previously would have liked to know the torque the damper needs before the clutch in it slips- I think, looking at the earlier damper than the design may be to lock up solid- the ramps between the two halves may achieve that? In other words the damper may allow a slight slip before it locks up? I have a rattle accompanying mine which is annoying- not sure whether alternator or cam chain. Mine doesn't slip often, yet- my other CBR got progressively worse, quickly. Hmmm

 

Someone mentioned the damper itself may rattle- this may have happened until I changed the damper in my last CBR too.

 

I might add also- Kawasaki don't put clutches on their GPZ series engines either- I have GPZ900R and ZRX1200R engines which are pretty much the same and have a starter/alternator chain- they have a rubber cush drive but no clutch/damper as a 'fuse'. They are also easily accessed behind the right hand cover. A bit easier than the Honda setup! The tensioner on these fail but it is usually the clutch that suffers- not the crank. A broken tensioner gets caught up in the clutch basket.

 

On second thoughts- maybe the Honda damper is 'clutch engaged' all the time until a force great enough engages the ramps which disengages the clutch????

 

I justified the $300 cost (still available from both CMS and David Silver) by reasoning that this would be the only time I'd ever have to buy and fit this component for the rest of my CBR owning/riding days.

Rear tyres are about $300 these days and most owners don't seem to quibble about buying those every few years. Hope this helps before you dive into the innards of the damper.

Cheers,

Dennis

 

It is a good point you make.