Alternator chain too tight to insert alternator shaft
#1
08-05-2013, 03:09 PM
Alternator chain too tight to insert alternator shaft
Could someone give me an idea what (and where) to press to release the ratchet/pawl on the alternator chain tensioner?
I've read the advice about pressing the pawl with a length of wire; what does the pawl look like, where is it, and what direction do I need to push? I've bent down the alternator chain guide tab in case that might help...
I'm trying to put my alternator back in after repairing (I hope) the damper (added a washer filed down to about 0.5mm). I've tried loads of times without being able to get the shaft all the way through past the bearing. Then I accidentally tensioned the chain even more.
Many many thanks.
I've read the advice about pressing the pawl with a length of wire; what does the pawl look like, where is it, and what direction do I need to push? I've bent down the alternator chain guide tab in case that might help...
I'm trying to put my alternator back in after repairing (I hope) the damper (added a washer filed down to about 0.5mm). I've tried loads of times without being able to get the shaft all the way through past the bearing. Then I accidentally tensioned the chain even more.
Many many thanks.
#2
08-05-2013, 04:01 PM
Super Moderator
Hey Hmmm,
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...uccess-139015/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...-clutch-95211/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...al-how-143687/
Once you have done it, its quite easy.
Looking at the bike from the left hand side you have the hole where the alternator shaft goes.
Looking into the hole and down to the left (with a torch) you should be able to see the tensioner. The pawl is towards you from the spring.
Read ALL of the above and you should have success.
When you can do it from the front, then bend some wire up and re-do it through the starter motor hole. Leave that wire there when you reassemble the alternator shaft and components in.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, SB
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...uccess-139015/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-tos-8...-clutch-95211/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...al-how-143687/
Once you have done it, its quite easy.
Looking at the bike from the left hand side you have the hole where the alternator shaft goes.
Looking into the hole and down to the left (with a torch) you should be able to see the tensioner. The pawl is towards you from the spring.
Read ALL of the above and you should have success.
When you can do it from the front, then bend some wire up and re-do it through the starter motor hole. Leave that wire there when you reassemble the alternator shaft and components in.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, SB
#3
08-05-2013, 04:49 PM
Thanks SB. Great photo but still puzzled.
From memory, when I look inside I see a cylindrical thing with a cut-out towards the front, possibly at the base of the spring. Is that the pawl? If so, which way to push it?
And how many times can you bend the chain guide tab back and forth before it snaps?
Sorry for being dumb but I haven't looked at it for a few days. In fact out of sheer desperation and depression I bought a monthly rail ticket today.
From memory, when I look inside I see a cylindrical thing with a cut-out towards the front, possibly at the base of the spring. Is that the pawl? If so, which way to push it?
And how many times can you bend the chain guide tab back and forth before it snaps?
Sorry for being dumb but I haven't looked at it for a few days. In fact out of sheer desperation and depression I bought a monthly rail ticket today.
#4
08-05-2013, 05:07 PM
Super Moderator
Not being dumb Hmm, it's tricky to find it but once you do! 
A little like sex really.............................
In the photo above Hmm, the back of the pawl - which is flat, is where the spoke/wire goes - exactly where the green line (wire) is. From outside the bike you really can't see it that well and have to press the wire down by 'feel' until with pressure on the lower alternator chain you feel the lot loosen and then can be pressed down by hand.
Took me about 15 minutes to find the spot to start with.
Just keep trying, you'll get there.
Cheers, SB
A little like sex really.............................In the photo above Hmm, the back of the pawl - which is flat, is where the spoke/wire goes - exactly where the green line (wire) is. From outside the bike you really can't see it that well and have to press the wire down by 'feel' until with pressure on the lower alternator chain you feel the lot loosen and then can be pressed down by hand.
Took me about 15 minutes to find the spot to start with.
Just keep trying, you'll get there.
Cheers, SB
#5
08-05-2013, 05:43 PM
#6
08-27-2013, 05:56 PM
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Hey! That's my bike!
seriously SB is the man on this job. I've written about my experiences with this job elsewhere on here and without SB I would still be staring into that hole.
I stuck the phone in there and kept taking photos until i understood where the release was. Its all about feel (just like sex indeed). What a sense of elation when you do release it!
and the pawl is good to get right too!
Let us know how you get on, i'm just about to do this job again to put in a new Damper. Can't wait to get in that hole!
O
seriously SB is the man on this job. I've written about my experiences with this job elsewhere on here and without SB I would still be staring into that hole.
I stuck the phone in there and kept taking photos until i understood where the release was. Its all about feel (just like sex indeed). What a sense of elation when you do release it!
and the pawl is good to get right too!
Let us know how you get on, i'm just about to do this job again to put in a new Damper. Can't wait to get in that hole!
O
#7
08-28-2013, 03:41 AM
Hi oml,
I finally managed to release the pawl last Monday, following encouragement from SB and after looking at this page:
WWW.CBR-1000.de
The shaft just slid in like a well oiled ... (continued on page 137). As you say I was elated to see the threaded end poke through. I'd been trying to do it on and off for three weeks!
I still don't know what it looks like down in that hole (apart from SB's photo) as I did it all by feel, but once I found the sweet spot there was no looking back.
I used a wire coathanger. After I'd succeeded in releasing the pawl from the outside of the bike, I did it again with the coathanger going through the starter motor hole. I bent the coathanger so it hooked under a convenient part of the engine with a bit of spring tension to keep it in place. The coathanger wasn't quite strong enough to depress the pawl but I was able to push it down with one hand while inserting the shaft with the other. A thicker wire would probably work better but maybe would be harder to bend. The coathanger slid out with a bit of wiggling.
Over the next few days (time permitting) I'll see how the engine turns over with my 're-engineered' damper, then refit the carbs, airbox and tank.
Good luck!
I finally managed to release the pawl last Monday, following encouragement from SB and after looking at this page:
WWW.CBR-1000.de
The shaft just slid in like a well oiled ... (continued on page 137). As you say I was elated to see the threaded end poke through. I'd been trying to do it on and off for three weeks!
I still don't know what it looks like down in that hole (apart from SB's photo) as I did it all by feel, but once I found the sweet spot there was no looking back.
I used a wire coathanger. After I'd succeeded in releasing the pawl from the outside of the bike, I did it again with the coathanger going through the starter motor hole. I bent the coathanger so it hooked under a convenient part of the engine with a bit of spring tension to keep it in place. The coathanger wasn't quite strong enough to depress the pawl but I was able to push it down with one hand while inserting the shaft with the other. A thicker wire would probably work better but maybe would be harder to bend. The coathanger slid out with a bit of wiggling.
Over the next few days (time permitting) I'll see how the engine turns over with my 're-engineered' damper, then refit the carbs, airbox and tank.
Good luck!
#8
08-28-2013, 05:18 AM
Super Moderator
Hi oml,
I finally managed to release the pawl last Monday, following encouragement from SB and after looking at this page:
WWW.CBR-1000.de
The shaft just slid in like a well oiled ... (continued on page 137). As you say I was elated to see the threaded end poke through. I'd been trying to do it on and off for three weeks!
I still don't know what it looks like down in that hole (apart from SB's photo) as I did it all by feel, but once I found the sweet spot there was no looking back.
I used a wire coathanger. After I'd succeeded in releasing the pawl from the outside of the bike, I did it again with the coathanger going through the starter motor hole. I bent the coathanger so it hooked under a convenient part of the engine with a bit of spring tension to keep it in place. The coathanger wasn't quite strong enough to depress the pawl but I was able to push it down with one hand while inserting the shaft with the other. A thicker wire would probably work better but maybe would be harder to bend. The coathanger slid out with a bit of wiggling.
Over the next few days (time permitting) I'll see how the engine turns over with my 're-engineered' damper, then refit the carbs, airbox and tank.
Good luck!
I finally managed to release the pawl last Monday, following encouragement from SB and after looking at this page:
WWW.CBR-1000.de
The shaft just slid in like a well oiled ... (continued on page 137). As you say I was elated to see the threaded end poke through. I'd been trying to do it on and off for three weeks!
I still don't know what it looks like down in that hole (apart from SB's photo) as I did it all by feel, but once I found the sweet spot there was no looking back.
I used a wire coathanger. After I'd succeeded in releasing the pawl from the outside of the bike, I did it again with the coathanger going through the starter motor hole. I bent the coathanger so it hooked under a convenient part of the engine with a bit of spring tension to keep it in place. The coathanger wasn't quite strong enough to depress the pawl but I was able to push it down with one hand while inserting the shaft with the other. A thicker wire would probably work better but maybe would be harder to bend. The coathanger slid out with a bit of wiggling.
Over the next few days (time permitting) I'll see how the engine turns over with my 're-engineered' damper, then refit the carbs, airbox and tank.
Good luck!
Well done for succeeding and the succeeding again!
You know one day one of us should collate ALL the information and photos from these threads and do a comprehensive 'How To' for this problem. Might make it easier for others in the future.
And I'm very pleased we have a growing number of members who have used the bent wire and blind luck method with success.
Cheers, SB
#9
08-28-2013, 07:21 AM
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SB, I think that would be a good plan, each thread has something to offer but maybe a master class thread would be in order.
I got mine back in tonight as well, also using a coat hanger. I was able to cut it short after locating it using the big hole. i then bent it around and through the the small starter hole. It stayed in place mostly but was already bent closely enough to just push back in when it did pop slightly.
I found a finger in the end and a gentle tap with the rubber mallet slid it straight in(Phoah!)
Getting it out afterwards was difficult and i was relieved to get it out of the hole!
I got mine back in tonight as well, also using a coat hanger. I was able to cut it short after locating it using the big hole. i then bent it around and through the the small starter hole. It stayed in place mostly but was already bent closely enough to just push back in when it did pop slightly.
I found a finger in the end and a gentle tap with the rubber mallet slid it straight in(Phoah!)
Getting it out afterwards was difficult and i was relieved to get it out of the hole!
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