3 miles? screw that....4 blks was enough for my chicken legs lol. valve adjust is next. i think i can dnload the manual from this forum yes?
new battery is charging now. put old one back in just to see what happens and she fired right up. incredible. shes come so far is seems in the last few weeks. again....thank you all for the input. still lots to do to her. minor oil leak somewhere, broken headlight cover, missing fairings, bolts and screws here and there, needs new rear tire....i see all these pictures of ur bikes and think omg they are so nice lol....then look at mine and think how ugly she looks......but when i got on it and rode her for the first time....none of that mattered. if even for 10 minutes....

 

Yes you can down load the manual here. and it is very helpful. After I got everything taken off and ready for adjust, I used this...

Rotate engine counter clock wise to # 4 cyl inlet just closes and align the timing marks.
Check inlet valve clearence of # 2 and 4
Outlet valve of # 3 and 4
Rotate engine 360 degrees counter clock wise check alignment of timing marks
Check inlet valve clearance of # 1 and 3

outlet valve of # 1 and 2

And I had to push her for 3 miles all because the pulser coil connector was loose(internal)

 

new battery day one take 2......dead within 15 minutes....this time...i ventured out a little further lol. excellent write ups here checking the electrical....still procrastinating doing valves....seems im not finding the right manual yet.

 

im leaking fuel and i think it may be one of the fuel joint pipes, or the oring rather. so the only option im left with is removing each individual carb....so my question is: what hazards should i be aware of...more specifically...are there any spring loaded screws or tensioner springs i should be aware of? ill figure out how to separate them from one another.....i just dont want to be suprised by a screw launching at high speed. thx all

 

on another note....i bought a multimeter (as if i even know how to use it) and after reading through several posts i was able to determine that the battery is definately not being charged while bike is running, idle or 5krpm. i know there are other items to check to determine the culprit (r&r or stator) and im wondering if any of u have the patience to explain how to use the multimeter to check these? just trying to figure out what is killing my battery after only riding 15 minutes....well...i take that back.....if i wait for a while it will start back up....but gives the illusion that battery is toast....it just clicks. thx again

 

Set the multi meter on 20V and away you go.
The manual has a procedure for checking the reg/rec but if it isn't charging, it can only be that or the Stator. Check the r/r connections, and look for burn marks/melting on the wires.

To check the Stator you need to use the 3 yellow wires to check what the output is - also in the manual - should all read 30 - if any are much lower - that's you problem. You really should use a Megger to test the Stator - more accurate - but most of us don't have access to one.....

Good luck.

You could try www.blackbears.ru for the manual.................

 

ok thx. ive got the manual. i was just a little intimidated by all the setting indicators on the multimeter. cool! u answered my question. thank you thank you!

 

Shadow.....following the manual it states to measure the ohms. or at least i think thats what its referring to...not voltage as far as testing the alternator and r&r. i just dont have any experience measuring volts and amps or ohms. i know how to test my battery just fine and measure the voltage while bike is running. i know the battery is not being charged. the three yellow wires u are referring to on the stator are easy enough to find but testing them i either get a constant 1 measuring ohms, or a constant 0 with voltage.
Does the bike need to be running for any of these tests?. manual really doesnt state.
do u have to take the wire harness off to test either r&r or stator?