My microfisch and Honda manual show that the slow jet can be removed although it's rather vague as to how. You could try gently unscrewing it with a pair of pliers with some padding round the jaws to save damaging the surface but if looks like it's not going to come out don't try your strength.
The holes in these jets are very small. A good shot of compressed air may do it with the aid of some suitable chemicals. Exactly what, I'm not entirely sure would be of most help in this case.
You have the patience of a saint my friend. Don't give up!

 

thx henry. i did get them all out i thought by unscrewing them but upon putting them back in i noticed there were absolutely no threads. they are more or less pressed in and held by compression, so to speak. i just lightly tapped each one back in place, although it took some force to get them out...obviously i thought they unscrewed lol. whatever is making the carb leak now im sure is my fault...either by forgetting something important, or damaging something rubber or plastic with carb cleaner. will carb cleaner eat through the t fittings? im sure it will destroy the orings. also...it appeared to only be leaking from the 3rd carb....or the third carb from the right if sitting on bike. just couldnt pinpoint the spot. sorry....everyone here has been tremendous help..im just venting because im a 40yr old kid whos excited as hell to be working on something like this. would not have gotten this far without each and every one of you.....so again...thank you. ok....no more sentimental crap......wheres my blow torch.....ill find that leak.......here carby carby carby.....

 

starter fluid..duh! thankyou. i couldnt help it...i put carbs back in and tried starting a few times...then with a little help of starter fluid.....she purred......well ok.....thats a little dramatic but she ran....and unassisted for some time! thats new. only on full choke though....idles sorta high....4 and a half-ish....i turned down the choke a bit at a time until it died....but started right back up on full choke. no sign of leaking fuel yet....and carb number one sure popped a lot...mostly under lower rpm. its back and forth with the rpms....im a little intimidated by taking it out for a spin...what?...oh come on...i live atop of a very big hill and this thing isnt exactly light pushing ya know....besides....battery died........

 

Hey:

Just a couple of things to check is the bands on the intake side of the carbs, real tight as they need to be, also has the thumbwheel on the left side made any difference when adj yet?

Dub

 

yes. thumbscrew was turned all the way up, or turned to max idle. when turned down while fully choked i seem to get the same result as just turning choke off. eventually it just dies. its set abt midrange now so it doesnt continue to idle at 4.5-5 rpms. sounded really pretty at 2....except for number one coughing time after time. im going to put in brand new plugs and a battery and see what happens. maybe....just maybe one or more of the plugs just isnt doing its job as effectively as it should. i think they are ngk's? i never even checked the gaps yet....seems im trying to run before learning to walk.

 

bands are tight for sure and boots are seated correctly.

 

Hey:

Ok after you pull and chk the plugs are all the same or replaced with new, you will need to chk the valves for adj and then the carbs for balance after you feel you have the carbs completely up to spec mechanically those will be 2 of your next steps so read up on them to get the feel for what your about to do. The valves when checked may need adj on #1 probably ex will be tight. So be prepared to be able to adj to within spec. Your idle should be between 500 and 1,000 rpms depending on your location and altitude. BTW where are you located?

Dub

 

ive read lots abt adjusting valves in this forum....how to's, video, pics...seems waaaaay out of my league. So of course im going to try lol. Im in lincoln, NE...u know...go big red?....welcome to the big 10?

 

Valve adjust is not too hard, you just need to be able to tighten the lock nut w/o moving the adjuster screw. you could weld a handle to a socket(i think it was 15mm, but could be wrong) this way your allen key can go through the middle and hold the adjuster screw in place. All in all it was fairly easy, and is a must if it hasnt been done in a while/ever. Make sure you get a good set of feeler gauges. and if you follow the how too on the forum, then it shouldnt be too bad. Atleast our bikes dont use shims!!!

 

are new plugs pre gapped btw? put them in and now wont run at all except to burn off the starter fluid. sounds like its trying to suck in too much air when i turn the throttle to feed it more juice but once the starter fluid is gone its a done deal.......nothing like it was 2 days ago where it fired up and idled by itself. i pulled out new plugs and they were already darkened. almost an oil color on the threads. im going to pull carbs out....again.....inspect and clean again....try and try again. should i be worried abt oil in the fuel?