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Glad to hear you got it running. Generally if it cranks it's not the starter, so I'd start elsewhere
You said you suspected the regulator/rectifier right? FWIW there are good aftermarket replacements for pretty cheap. You can rule out whether it's a bad battery or bad R/R by following the troubleshooting guide in the manual
Glad to hear you got it running. Generally if it cranks it's not the starter, so I'd start elsewhere
You said you suspected the regulator/rectifier right? FWIW there are good aftermarket replacements for pretty cheap. You can rule out whether it's a bad battery or bad R/R by following the troubleshooting guide in the manual
thanks guys I appreciate the help. I did test the battery when she cranks over the voltage drops on battery and I just put in the battery. So the rectifier could cause that as well
Well it turns out the new battery I had only had 190 crank amps. I replaced it with one that had 220 amps. Started up great. Bad news though it was short lived I drive her today for a 1 hr 30mins shut her off at a friend's house now it won't start cranks over fine checked killswitch it's good checked fuel (half a tank) any ideas? I shut it off a couple of times in the cruise started perfectly.
You said you suspected the regulator/rectifier right?
What is battery voltage? Does it crank slowly, ie., is the battery discharging? Cause that's what it sounds like
You really should be working from the manual. There's a free pdf on this very forum. Chapter 16 deals with the Battery/Charging system, and there are some simple tests that will rule out a lot of the common culprits. If you learn it properly once, I promise it'll make it a lot easier to troubleshoot similar problems in the future. If the battery is discharged, you will want to check out the following:
1) Parasitic draw/short to ground (voltage leakage inspection)
2) Bad battery (regulated voltage inspection)
3) Stator coil continuity
4) Field coil continuity
5) Feedback & output line voltage
6) Field coil voltage
When those tests are done, you should have all the info you need to make a diagnosis, and we'll help however we can
Also I'd be putting a trickle charger on that old battery. Unless the voltage is below 9V or so, you've got a good chance of bringing it back from the dead. Then you have a spare (sounds like you'll need it)
What is battery voltage? Does it crank slowly, ie., is the battery discharging? Cause that's what it sounds like
You really should be working from the manual. There's a free pdf on this very forum. Chapter 16 deals with the Battery/Charging system, and there are some simple tests that will rule out a lot of the common culprits. If you learn it properly once, I promise it'll make it a lot easier to troubleshoot similar problems in the future. If the battery is discharged, you will want to check out the following:
1) Parasitic draw/short to ground (voltage leakage inspection)
2) Bad battery (regulated voltage inspection)
3) Stator coil continuity
4) Field coil continuity
5) Feedback & output line voltage
6) Field coil voltage
When those tests are done, you should have all the info you need to make a diagnosis, and we'll help however we can
Also I'd be putting a trickle charger on that old battery. Unless the voltage is below 9V or so, you've got a good chance of bringing it back from the dead. Then you have a spare (sounds like you'll need it)
Good luck
sadly it's a new battery. Where could I find this manual on this site?
Here's the FSM for the first-gen hurricane. The link from Echowars is for the second gen so it should be fine too but I know there's a couple differences between them
If you go back to page 2 where tentacleslap supplied the wiring diagram, it shows that when the key is on and the kill switch is closed, + goes to the coils. The spark box provides the - to the coils to make spark.
With the ignition in the run position and kill switch closed do you see + on the Black/White wires on the coil?
Also, the spark box sends the - to the coils. Perhaps a faulty ground to the spark box.