When it comes to electrical problems I've always preferred a methodical approach rather than just throwing parts at it. Did you confirm the fuses?

These bikes don't have much in the ways of fancy controls/sensors. Case in point - here's a schematic of the ignition system. I can't recall if the bike will turn over with the killswitch on or just click dead, but we would need to troubleshoot each component in the circuit in order to isolate the problem. I always start with fuses/battery voltage since they're the most common culprits and easy to check. If those are confirmed good, it's just a matter of moving down the schematic, testing each component til the fault is found

Spend extra time rechecking anything that's been replaced recently, and ensure that the grounds are good

 

+1 on what tentacleslap said. Troubleshooting electrical issues isn't usually that tough if you understand some basics. Think of it as troubleshooting plumbing issues as that is pretty much what it is.
Also always start with the source and go from there stap by step.

 

Can confirm - the engine will turn over even if the killswitch is on. It won't fire though

 

I have checked the fuses with test light. I have replaced the battery and checked it to make sure, it's good. I did notice my negitive cable coming from the battery is probably bad. When I connected it at first the bikes lights came on and clicked then nothing. After messing with the cable it started to crank over again without issue still no start though. I'm going to replace it, but could that cause anything like that.

 

After you have replaced the cable I would recheck the fuses. A loose connection like that can cause spikes that can pop a fuse.

 

So check my "new" pulse generator and it registers 0.01 amps. Is there any sites that sell brand new ones (doubt it) worth a try though.

 

Hi did you do the Ohms test

 

Agree. Amperage is not how you test pulse generators. It's a resistance check. Amperage will be meaningless since they spin around and unless you've got a Fluke (nice multimeter) it'll just average it out anyway

Also, didn't you say that you'd already replaced the pulse generators? Was this before or after you lost spark? If it was before, then yes, that makes them a prime suspect. If it was after, it definitely points to a problem upstream

Confirm switches (esp since the wires for the killswitch are way up in the elements being handlebar mounted) If you've got bad wires at the battery ground you should really step back and start continuity checks down the ignition system before throwing more parts at it

 

okay turns out on of the kilswitch wires wasn't connecting all the way. So now I have spark and it starts with a battery charger on it. I'm thinking the starter or battery is bad. Even though it is a new battery.

 

Glad you got her running again.

It's been covered here in the past that unless you have optinum charge on your battery the bike will not want to start