I started this thread in the F4 forum, and had a few guys ask me how it's done. So I thought this would be the best forum to post the procedure.

Here's what it looks like when it's done:



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1999 CBR F4 - 2004 600rr Swingarm and Suspension Conversion

DISCLAIMER - This is how I performed this conversion. I am not a mechanic, a welder, a engineer or any other related professional to perform this conversion. If you choose to perform this swingarm conversion, you do so at your own risk! I am in no way liable in any fashion for any damages, injuries or deaths from the steps as described herin. If you choose to try this, please take care and use common sense. Talk to your local professionls about these steps and get thier advice/input on the proper measures to perform them. If you find a better way of doing things, please post your changes so we can all bennifit from them.
Now that that's outta the way...

Ok, I finally have it finnished.

The parts required:

1) A Shop manual for your F4. When I disassembled/re-assembled the rear end, it was a good reference and has all the torque specs. You know better

2) An '03 or '04 600rr swingarm and suspension linkage, I used an '04, but I bought it being told that it was an '03. These two years I know work because the upper shock mount on the swingarm is removable and can be turned around 180 degrees, which is a requirement for this conversion. The '05 - '06 swinger doesn't have a removable shock mount, they're all cast and won't work. Other years might work as well, but I couldn't tell you which ones. I'm pretty sure as long as the top shock mount is removable, it'll work. I paid $155 off ebay with shock, rocker linkage, dogbone, chain sliders, etc. everything but plastics, it was a complete assembled unit in near perfect condition.

3) The brake calliper braket. Make sure it is for the year of the swing arm. There are differences between them, that's how I know I actually have an '04 swinger. I was told that my swinger was an '03, so I jumped on ebay and bought an '03 brake calliper bracket. Go figure, it doesn't fit. So after more research, I found out the differences and ordered an '04. The differences are the distance and angle from the axel to the calliper bracket stay are different between the years. $22.50 off ebay with the gold calliper. (I went and got the gold front ones too, they were only $35 off ebay too and are a perfect fit). If you use the 600rr rear brake calliper you will also need the longer 600rr brake hose. The banjo fitting is on the backside of the 600rr calliper, not the front side like the F4. You can use the stock F4 calliper and brake line, but there is an odd kink in the line due to offset of the banjo fittings.

4) '04 - '06 1000rr shock. You can't use the 600rr shock, there is not enough clearence because the shock reservoir will hit the bottom of the battery box. I know the '04 - '06 1000rr works because of the placement of the reservoir - they point straight back (forward in our application), where as the 600rr is pointed side ways. Other years might work, but again, I couldn't tell ya. $55 again off ebay.

5) 1 grade 10.9 or 8.8 nut and bolt - 10mm shaft diameter, 140mm smooth shaft length, 20mm of thread length. Appropriate LockNut for the forementioned bolt. This nut and bolt is for the lower dogbone linkage. Grade 10.9 is the metric equivallant of a Standard Grade 8 bolt and I do believe that 8.8 metric is grade 5 standard. Because this bolt is a critical part of the suspension linkage, it must be a high tollerent grade bolt/nut. You have to have the 140mm smooth part of the shaft because the linkage rotates on this bolt, and if there are threads it will grind away the inside of your lower dogbones bolt bushing. I couldn't get a bolt to that exact spec, I could only find a 10mm x 160mm smooth shaft and 20mm of thread and I couldn't find it in 1

 

How It's Done:

1) Take your bike appart. Before you begin - measure your current seat hight and write it down. This is going to be your reference hight when the conversion is all complete and you have to resetup your suspension. First I removed the fairings and exhaust and supported the bike from undernieth, on the oil pan. I strapped the front end down to the stand, I wanted to make sure she wasn't moving. Then I took off the tire, bracke calliper bracket and swingarm (using parts list #9) and started mockup. Took about 1.5 hours to get it completely apart and ready for mockup.

2) Get your swingarm ready (parts list #2 & #4). You will have to grind the upper shock mount a little bit at the bottom back part of the shock mount to make it line up with the bolt holes of the swinger, not much just a couple mills. Just grind a little and test fit until it works, becareful though, depending on how well you grind it, it could be visible when the conversion is complete. Insert your 1000rr shock with the reservoir facing towards the front of the bike and bolt the lower linkage on. Now bolt on your Shock mount bracket and bolt your shock to it. Your swinger is ready to go. Took me about 20 minutes.

*** Note *** After I had everything fitting with the swingarm, I replaced all of the swingers bearings, sleeves and seals with new before I mounted it perminatly to the bike. Cost about $130 for the parts new and then Honda wanted another $100 to install them, and that's with me bringing them a stripped, ready to work on swinger. So back to the machinest, $10 ready the next day. He did it cryogenically with co2, he said it took him 15 minutes. F**K YOU AGAIN Honda.

3) Put on your new rear end. Put the new swinger on and get the main pivot of the swinger all fitted and torqued to factory F4 spec. Drill out the lower center stand mount hole on the left hand side, the holes below the stock lower linkage mount, to 10mm to accomodate the lower linkage bolt you made/bought (part list #5). Mount the lower linkage bolt with the fourth bushing (part list #6) to take up the difference with the mounting hole on the right hand side of the center stand mount, you'll see what I mean. When the lower linkage is mounted to the center stand mounts, you will notice on the right hand side there is a space between the dogbone and the inside of the right hand bracket, put a couple of washers in there to take up the difference. You don't want any latteral movement of the dogbone. Took about 45 minutes altogether.

4) Put the rear tire on. Use the 3 bushings (part list #6) on the axel pin to mount it all. 2 bushings for the swingarm, one for the brake calliper bracket (parts list #3).

5) Align your rear tire. I had to grind and shim my wheel spacers to make it all fit. You have to grind the right hand side wheel spacer between the wheel and brake calliper bracket about 1.5mm to make sure that the calliper bracket rides dead center of the brake rotor. I used a laser pointer to align my sprockets. I measured from the rear sprocket to the front sprocket (using a the laser pointer and a ruler). I had to grind my left hand wheel spacer down 7mm to line up the sprockets, once the the sprockets were in perfect alignment with each other, I knew I was in perfect alignment with the rest of the frame since my front sprocket position is factory and has not been adjusted in any way. I then had to shim the right hand side 7mm between the swingarm and the brake calliper bracket to keep everything in check and not flex the swingarm.

6) Figure out your clearences with wires, brackets, brake line, etc. Figure out your fuel line routing. If you put your fuel pump in the same place

 

Here's a few more pics so you can see it all assembled. In the first pic, you can see the fuel pump (just below the shock reservoir). I mounted it (using a clamp) to the bolt that runs through the frame and motor under the carbs. It's hard to see. I played around with different places to put the pump, but this seemed to be the best I could find.

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