What performance mods should I do?
#1
#2
RE: What performance mods should I do?
you can mod it the day you bring it home.
you must first realize that with a slip on or full system you need to have a custom map done on it to get the most amount of performance as possible.
slips ons
sato, arata, akro, arrow, or any other high end one will give you 10+ with a custom map
full systems will do 14 or so on average however the main advantage of a full system is the weight advantage. full systems (especially the titanium header ones) will take off max amount of weight.
for in depth research go to 1000rr.net and check out the exhaust database. it gives exhaust info to include hp gains of various pipes
ti headers are just fine for street use
you must first realize that with a slip on or full system you need to have a custom map done on it to get the most amount of performance as possible.
slips ons
sato, arata, akro, arrow, or any other high end one will give you 10+ with a custom map
full systems will do 14 or so on average however the main advantage of a full system is the weight advantage. full systems (especially the titanium header ones) will take off max amount of weight.
for in depth research go to 1000rr.net and check out the exhaust database. it gives exhaust info to include hp gains of various pipes
ti headers are just fine for street use
#3
RE: What performance mods should I do?
ORIGINAL: baxsom
you can mod it the day you bring it home.
you can mod it the day you bring it home.
#4
#5
#6
RE: What performance mods should I do?
ORIGINAL: bergs
While this statement is true, I'd wait ontuninguntil the engine's broken in. Reason being is that once the motor's broken in, you're making full HP (with stock parts)and you can tune to that instead of tuning to a tight motor in which the tune will likely degrade as the motor loosens up over time.
ORIGINAL: baxsom
you can mod it the day you bring it home.
you can mod it the day you bring it home.
thats it
the amount of air and fuel is not going to be affected by the wear of the motor.
considering motor break in is only 300 miles (directly from honda's owners manual) i think he will be good
tunung is controlled by the ecu and augmented by a pc3
true you wont see the max hp the tune is creating because of a tighter motor but the air fuel will not change just because parts are wearing in.
the only mechanical parts that would mess with air fuel are the valves and thats only if they dont seal all the way. one would assume that they seal completely even after being broke in otherwise the bike wouldnt build compression and start
at worst get it tuned. and take it back in a couple thousand miles and get it tested again. the hp will be up and the same map should still be on
(not accounting for differences in air pressure or temp of course)
but thats just my research based opinion, everyone is free to form their own. the above rant is pretty much verbatim of the dyno tech here at Velocty Dyno in san antonio
#7
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