Weight shaving mod info needed
I'm looking for info into some weight shaving mods that can be done to 04' 1000RR.
I'm planning on doing PVM 10-y Magnesium wheels, 520 conversion, Galfer lines, Rearsets (Thinking Gilles), CRG levers and ????
I have the Laser Extreme slip, so no full Micron or Akro for the time being.
What else can I do for weight reduction??
I'm not going for the HP increases just yet, future plans include the full exhaust and PCIII W/custom map.
I've already removed tool kit, I have flush mounts and tailight integrater, Exotic plate bracket on swing arm.
What about brakes and Rotors? I've heard the stock rotors are good to go and much better than Aft wave rotors?
All info would be appreciated
I'm planning on doing PVM 10-y Magnesium wheels, 520 conversion, Galfer lines, Rearsets (Thinking Gilles), CRG levers and ????
I have the Laser Extreme slip, so no full Micron or Akro for the time being.
What else can I do for weight reduction??
I'm not going for the HP increases just yet, future plans include the full exhaust and PCIII W/custom map.
I've already removed tool kit, I have flush mounts and tailight integrater, Exotic plate bracket on swing arm.
What about brakes and Rotors? I've heard the stock rotors are good to go and much better than Aft wave rotors?
All info would be appreciated
If you are shaped any where near me - the best mod is going to the gym and burning a few pounds off... if you're racing you'll need the extra strength/endurance and it really brings the power to weight ratio back up.
Other than that - you're on the right track. The aftermarket exhaust might also save a bit of weight, and aftermarket plastics are often lighter.
This doesn't sound like a track bike though?
you might want to consider the order in which you are doing these, a full titanium exhaust and wheels are the two biggest weight saving items you can buy, the levers and rearsets are lighter, but really not by much (i have the crg's and gilles); I would however seriously consider what you are trying to do and why....magnesium wheels are light and great for the track, but not necessarily a good choice for the street. If you a building a track bike, then okay and also do the full exhaust, as the slip on is merely for sound and asthetics. My bike is fast enough for me, so my mods reflect that, i have the crg levers, gilles rears, two bros slip on, fender elim, integrated rear turn signals; if i do wheels, the will be the forged aluminum, simply because they are lighter than the factory, look better and are significantly more durable for a street bike than magnesiums. Wheels are an expensive mod, so I really consider what you plan to do with the bike before buying them, the full ti exhaust is a significant weight savings, plus you get more ponies for about half the cost of wheels (even with the pc & air cleaner)
Hey guy's, I'm not building a track bike here, I'm good on the power and speed for now. Maybe in the future I'll be adding the high HP gain stuff, for now, I just want to take off some weight on the bike and make it look a little nicer. I've been hearing great things about the PVM wheels, I've heard both ends of the spectrum on the magnesium for street use, good and bad. Yes I want a solid wheel, but I'm not planning on taking on any curbs with the RR.
Thanks for the replies and keep the info coming.
Thanks for the replies and keep the info coming.
The HRC fuel tank, and kit subframe shave about 14 in total, Forged Mag wheels and Ti exhaust system, long with a Ohlins shock with a Ti Spring, Ti Axles...
The Gilles footrests flex a bit to much for any kind of serious duty. The Kit Radiator saves a pound, but is $7800 the kit swingarm and link do the same but also cost a mint.
CF solo tail section and tank cover, along with a 520 conversion with aluminum sprockets, wave rotors etc...
you can spend a LOT of money getting down to a decent weight, and the HRC parts are SUPER expensive, I laugh when people complain about our bikes costing up to 150k, hell, the subframe, wiring harness, fuel tank, swingarm and radiator cost over $20k alone!
Have fun!!
The Gilles footrests flex a bit to much for any kind of serious duty. The Kit Radiator saves a pound, but is $7800 the kit swingarm and link do the same but also cost a mint.
CF solo tail section and tank cover, along with a 520 conversion with aluminum sprockets, wave rotors etc...
you can spend a LOT of money getting down to a decent weight, and the HRC parts are SUPER expensive, I laugh when people complain about our bikes costing up to 150k, hell, the subframe, wiring harness, fuel tank, swingarm and radiator cost over $20k alone!
Have fun!!
Hey Never, I am a firm believer that with your money, you should buy whatever you want, but you need to keep something in mind. Lowering weight is normally something people do on track bikes; many of the mods they do are not necessarily practical for a bike you are going to ride on the street. In addition, many of these mods can be expensive, and you many not even notice the dif in the way the bike feels. Wheels are a great example. Magnesium can cost an additional $500 or more over the same wheel in Forged Aluminum, yet both offer significant weight savings. You could even go with carbon fiber wheels and drop more weight (along with a serious chunk of cash); but my question to you would be why would you spend that kind of money on a bike for the street. Additionally some of the most effective weight reduction mods also improve performance, giving you a bigger bang for your buck. Take the exhuast for example, a full ti exhaust can not only save you 8 or more pounds, but also give you upwards of 10hp with a mapped pc3 and aftermarket air cleaner. Wheels also have an additional benefit as not only do they reduce the overall weight, but more importantly they reduce the unsprung weight. You say you are concerned with the hp gains yet, but you want to drop weight; you do realize that making the bike lighter will also make in faster right? With that in mind, you should really consider the mods that do double duty. If your bike is already fast enough for you (like mine is for me), then your mods would be more asthetic, for example a slip on with the fender eliminator kit and integrated tail light; save you a few pounds too, but mainly looks and sounds cool. Maybe a carbon hugger, or aftermarket brake rotors and steel braided lines, again a little weight savings, but great looks. This why I really suggest you have a plan for your bike before spending money on mods. Building a fast track bike and building a pimp street bike can involve two seperate lists of mods, and you really got to know where you want to go before spending the money. My advice to you, do the basics first, exhaust, pc3, and air cleaner; you'll save the weight and increase the power, and from there you can go whichever way you want. Good luck to you and post some pics of your bike with the mods you've chosen
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