F1 code fuel injector problem.
#1
F1 code fuel injector problem.
My code on my 03 f4i shows code for fuel injector #3 open circuit or bad injector. I've checked continuity and all good on both wires. Injector is also good. Tested all and took out and cleaned. Sprays good. That being said. Does this issue that computer says I have cause fuel pump not to prime?
I cleared the codes and it comes back immediately.
Thanks for anyone's help
I cleared the codes and it comes back immediately.
Thanks for anyone's help
#2
What are numbers you measured for each test?
Move injector to different cylinder. Does error move with injector or stays in same place?
Pump not priming is different independent problem, neither are related. Could be bad BAS or ignition-switch. Only get factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer.
Move injector to different cylinder. Does error move with injector or stays in same place?
Pump not priming is different independent problem, neither are related. Could be bad BAS or ignition-switch. Only get factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer.
#3
What are numbers you measured for each test?
Move injector to different cylinder. Does error move with injector or stays in same place?
Pump not priming is different independent problem, neither are related. Could be bad BAS or ignition-switch. Only get factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer.
Move injector to different cylinder. Does error move with injector or stays in same place?
Pump not priming is different independent problem, neither are related. Could be bad BAS or ignition-switch. Only get factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer.
What do you think?
Thanks
#4
What are numbers you measured for each test?
Move injector to different cylinder. Does error move with injector or stays in same place?
Pump not priming is different independent problem, neither are related. Could be bad BAS or ignition-switch. Only get factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer.
Move injector to different cylinder. Does error move with injector or stays in same place?
Pump not priming is different independent problem, neither are related. Could be bad BAS or ignition-switch. Only get factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer.
#5
Post photo of where you added this solder.
You still have problem with power to ECU. In end, after 9v is confirmed OK and BAS OK, then it’s ECU that activates pump. You can’t force it. Many people have fried ECU by trying to jerry-rig pump. But that’s futile because if ECU doesn’t run pump, it’s not gonna fire injectors or trigger sparks either.
Find that broken wire supplying power to ECU. So that you can violently wiggle harness and it won’t cut power. In fact, that’s how you can find it. Connect meter to measure power at ECU connector. Then start there and wiggle wiring further and further away until you find spot that causes power to come and go. Examine that area and figure out why. Could be broken wire inside insulation, or loose or corroded terminal inside connector, etc.
Find that broken wire supplying power to ECU. So that you can violently wiggle harness and it won’t cut power. In fact, that’s how you can find it. Connect meter to measure power at ECU connector. Then start there and wiggle wiring further and further away until you find spot that causes power to come and go. Examine that area and figure out why. Could be broken wire inside insulation, or loose or corroded terminal inside connector, etc.
Last edited by dannoxyz; 05-10-2024 at 12:29 AM.
#6
Post photo of where you added this solder.
You still have problem with power to ECU. In end, after 9v is confirmed OK and BAS OK, then it’s ECU that activates pump. You can’t force it. Many people have fried ECU by trying to jerry-rig pump. But that’s futile because if ECU doesn’t run pump, it’s not gonna fire injectors or trigger sparks either.
Find that broken wire supplying power to ECU. So that you can violently wiggle harness and it won’t cut power. In fact, that’s how you can find it. Connect meter to measure power at ECU connector. Then start there and wiring further away until you find spot that causes power to come and go. Examine that area and figure out why. Could be broken wire inside insulation, or loose or corroded terminal inside connector, etc.
You still have problem with power to ECU. In end, after 9v is confirmed OK and BAS OK, then it’s ECU that activates pump. You can’t force it. Many people have fried ECU by trying to jerry-rig pump. But that’s futile because if ECU doesn’t run pump, it’s not gonna fire injectors or trigger sparks either.
Find that broken wire supplying power to ECU. So that you can violently wiggle harness and it won’t cut power. In fact, that’s how you can find it. Connect meter to measure power at ECU connector. Then start there and wiring further away until you find spot that causes power to come and go. Examine that area and figure out why. Could be broken wire inside insulation, or loose or corroded terminal inside connector, etc.
#7
This pc solenoid. What is it for? I don't have the yellow and black wire coming from that connector on the ECU
#9
#10
Stop wasting time and money swapping perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts and nothing changes. Follow my guide here and post each number you measured at each step. The numbers will tell exactly what’s wrong and how to fix it. You have no idea what’s wrong because you haven’t measured. Just desperately shotgunning giant pile of parts at bike is complete waste of time and money.
This is 5-minute repair with multimeter and most likely no new parts needed. I’ve helped over 100 people fix this exact problem remotely by phone in far-off parking lots in total darkness. Sometimes in pouring rain!
Just follow my guide here step-by-step and post numbers you measured at each step. Do not skip any steps. Somewhere along way, you’ll measure number that’s different from what manual says it should be. Ahah!!! There’s your problem. Most likely corroded or broken wire or connector somewhere.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...1-06-a-163487/
This is 5-minute repair with multimeter and most likely no new parts needed. I’ve helped over 100 people fix this exact problem remotely by phone in far-off parking lots in total darkness. Sometimes in pouring rain!
Just follow my guide here step-by-step and post numbers you measured at each step. Do not skip any steps. Somewhere along way, you’ll measure number that’s different from what manual says it should be. Ahah!!! There’s your problem. Most likely corroded or broken wire or connector somewhere.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...1-06-a-163487/