does this not damage the gearbox? I come from car racing and we can only get away with the clutchless upshifts with a dogbox. downshifts we still use the clutch and just heel-toe it pretty hard. i would imagine it would make for one unhappy gearbox

(IMO and personal experience)...If you time it just right, clutchless shifting does not harm gearbox. It's the timing part that hurts them. I'm not coordinated enough to use my foot and clutchless shift. That's why I've been using an airshifter since the late 90s. When your timing is off and you're applying pressure to shifter before or after disrupting load to tranny that parts start to wear.

after third ill do clutchless especially if im gettin after it no power loss never downshifting tho.

always thought it wasnt a big issue, as long as you were out of first, and mostly upshifting, downshifting is possible but more of a straain on the gears, or atleast i would assume, really smooth too, but im new, so what the h3ll do i know??

A friend suggested me to buy CRGE but I have not heard its name before. Any one knows?

please also comment about it.

Get the power output synced to your momentum and you can do it every time. Not being able to do it is like having a bad hair day. We all have em, but when you're on form the question won't even enter your head, you'll just do it.
Shifting down? Apply the same rule and you'll be doing it unconsciously, miraculously, unless of course your hair just ain't right.

Just about every BIG truck going down the road upshifts and downshifts with out the clutch. It's all about matching road speed and engine speed with the right gear. For example on my 900rr 3rd gear@3500rpm=45-48mph. Because every bike is different, start monitoring what your road speed is compared to rpm's and gearing (when using the clutch of course). Once you've got that down, as you are increasing rpm's back off the throttle just a little, (this sort of releases the clutch with out pulling back the handle, if you don't back off the throttle it will grind) then shift up and return to throttling up, that's all there is to it. Down shifting is a bit different on bikes than cars and trucks(oh yeah, you can do this with cars too) because you have to go down one gear at a time sequentially (6,5,4,etc) an H pattern lets you skip gears going down, say 10th down to 7th. So, as your speed decreases bump the throttle just a little then let off(to release the clutch), as you let off then shift down but remember rpm's will go up because of the lower gear so you need to be quick to throttle again. On a H pattern (cars/trucks) after your speed has started decreasing just add little throttle then back off(to release the clutch) pull it out of gear, while in neutral, then bump the throttle to the corresponding rpm's combined with the road speed and put in the correct gear(remember you can skip gears in an H pattern). And now your "dumping the clutch" .

Don't go confusing people by comparing it to a car or tractor and saying you have to match RPM's to certain gears and road speeds because you don't. You can clutchless shift a bike (both up and down) at any RPM, its simply smoother the higher the RPM.

Doing a clutchelss downshift is exactly the same process as an upshift. Load the shifter, roll off the throttle, roll back on the throttle. Simple.

My apologies to those I confused. But it IS necessary to know each gears operating range. The max and minimum road speed in relation to engine speed (rpm's) whether you're on 18,10,6,4, or 2 wheels. Here is why, say you are slowing down for a red light, about 30 mph, but you're still in 5th gear and the light turns green, just dropping into 4th and taking off will create undue stress on the engine. 30 mph is not in 4th's operating range. Too high a gear and not enough speed causes the engine to "lug". It is better to use the clutch and drop into 2nd or 3rd at the very least. After all, the purpose of down shifting is for power. Yes, you can run up the gears all the way to 6th (and never top 45 mph) with your technique "its simply smoother the higher the RPM" well that's because you're not damaging the engine. The main point I intended to make (but apparently failed), was by knowing each gears proper operating range (ahead of time) will help to best determine what gear to shift into ,up or down. Also, i forgot to mention when down shifting you need to bump the RPM's up before putting into the lower gear so you won't get rear wheel 'fish tailing'.

I do it sometimes. But mainly on a downshift as I'm coasting to a light. I'll just sit up and have both hands off the bars as I stretch out and just hit it down.

But overall I use a clutch.