I know this isnt really gonna be helpful but Lrn have you ever gotten brand new tires? I mean for me i swear its the best feeling, it doesnt even feel like the same bike anymore, its amazing what you learn to live with on old tires. Then you put on fresh rubber front and rear and thebike feels like its gonna fall over when you ride, its tremendous.

 

EXACTLY! I was s**ting bricks the 2nd day I had my Qualifier's. I just was floored with how much better they gripped the road, took the corners and "fell" when you leaned. Great feeling.

 

Wow, I learned a lot reading this too. I was hoping we'd get some "track" people in here like krash

 

I dont feel like reading everything so if someone said this already sorry! Whats your tire pressure? correct it![:'(]

 

tires will make the largest difference.

 

Yes, Metzelers don't come on these bikes stock. And I do remember. It's still wanting me to get the best "bang" out of what I have.

 

OK Lrn since my last post was uttery useless i am going to try and make up for it. Hope your ready to read



Suspension 101.

Introduction

Unfortunately there is no literature that can give you the perfect machine setup. Also suspension setup is individually dependent on the rider (style, preference) and track conditions, which vary from race to race. We can therefore only try to give you guidelines and ground rules for the chassis setup of your machine.

General guideline
The general guideline in road racing is that the suspension has to support the tires to create the best possible grip. For this reason suspension plays it's most important role in corners, chicanes, acceleration and braking. In the straight line the suspension works satisfactory if it can absorb the bumps without causing instability.

Suspension stroke
A road race bike should normally not use its full suspension stroke, although on some circuit one or two big bumps or hollows can cause the suspension to bottom. Also landing of front wheel after wheelies can cause excessive use of the front fork stroke. If suspension bottoms in big bump or hollow, it should not automatically mean that the suspension should be set harder. However, if suspension bottoms at the place were the maximum grip is essential the tire cannot create the best traction, because it also has to perform as spring. Adjusting the setting is necessary. During every riding session the suspension stroke should be carefully checked. When tire grip and lap times improve, the suspension has a harder job. So, setting must be set harder. On the opposite, when it starts raining tire grip and lap times go down, in that case a softer setting should be applied.

Suspension setup
Before starting suspension setup, read the owners manual!
A tip, do your changes in suspension setup one by one, try to learn what effect each individual adjustment has on your bike and take notes!

Static sag without rider
Hold the bike upright on a flat surface. Independently lift front and rear until the suspension is fully extended, the value should be approximately:

Type Front sag Rear sag
Super Bike 20-30 mm 5-10 mm
Super Sport 20-30 mm 5-10 mm
RR 250 15-25 mm 0-5 mm
RR125 15-25 mm Just top out 0 mm

Note: An RR 125 cannot afford to loose the momentum that the sag would give in a straight line (loss of top speed). The static sag is adjusted by the spring preload. The procedure is the same for the front fork and rear shock.
Static sag with rider
The accepted manner to adjust the spring ratio is to measure how much stroke is used with the rider sitting on the bike in straight line position (behind fairing) after you have set the correct static sag without rider. Normally 1/3 of the full stroke is a good starting point for all machines. This is only a guide line for the right spring ratio. The final check must be done on the circuit.

Note: Ohlins racing shocks features a "top-out" spring to prevent the shock from extending to quickly, causing the rear wheel to jump under braking. The top-out spring also affects the negative sag, making it difficult to adjust the sag with the shock on the bike.

Your Ohlins shock is delivered with the correct spring preload set and we recommend you to use this value for the basic setup. Ride height should be adjusted with the ride height adjuster on the bike or on the shock.

Rebound damping:
*Rear suspension
Too much rebound damping can cause:
- The rear "jumps" on the bumps instead of following the surface.
- The rear "jitters" under braking.
- It holds the rear down with the result that the bike will understeer!
- It can cause overheating in the hydraulic syst

 

Well I've only read your post and I see there are 3 pages of probably good guesses, lemme make one...

Tires. I'll bet your *** it's your rubber homie. When a tire wears down (which can be well before tread is gone), it begins to cup. There will be a high-point in the center and flat sides. The bike will feel like it doesn't want to go any farther over because it's on a flattened side-wall as opposed to a curved side-wall.

An ideal tire will have a perfect radius from sidewall to sidewall. Any deviation will make a noticeable difference and the only cure is new rubber. Don't buy those tires again.

This is the exact reason I don't buy Pirellis anymore. They suck, IMO. I've gone through 2 sets and while the rear wore decent enough, both fronts licked *****. Worst wear I've ever seen. Pilot Powers' FTW, never had any issue with those even when teh tread is long gone...

Now I'm gonna goreadwho else agrees with me...

 

Haha, like I said above, you can still have tread and also have a poorly worn tire. Are they the M3's or the M1's? I know they only make the M1's now IIRC, but there are quite a few M3's floating around, too. My buddy has the M3's (2nd set) and loves them to pieces.

Don't be stubborn - you've already admitted that it in fact does need replaced (or you wouldn't have been as perplexed as you were to write that whole post to begin with), so just replace it. The Metzlers are a good tire so chances are the next one might last longer.

Replace dat bitch!

 

TK954RR, that is awesome info. I read about a third so far but am printing it out fo reference and storing it in my binders with the service manual and other repair info I've gotten. A+