Ok members!!! Thank you for all your tips!!!

1. job success! New set of front Mopar rotor and new pads installed.

2. I had some difficulty trying to fix the previous brake shop error. Looks like the brake shop that install my eBay cheap pad (Oct. 2011) somehow mess up the position of caliper piston boots. Once I pry gently against the rotor/pad, the piston back away, create enough space to slide off the caliper from the rotor....then when I prepared the C clamp to push back the piston...like what you guys say, I inspected the boot. The boot looks fine but it's not sitting flush...as I try to push the boot base edges back into the piston, no way. Kinda like 1/2 of boot base was pulled out, suppose to be the boot base should be tuck inward into the body but the brake shop must have carelessly tampered with the boot and now the position is not smooth...I should of take pictures but forgot.

3. I had extra bottle of brake fluid save from last time...so I bleed all the fluid out. Then in hand push the caliper piston one more time, to get it 100% back, see if somehow I can push the boot base tuck back into caliper body, but nothing...and I do not want to use a fine screwdriver. So I refill brake fluid, pump and bleed air....

Other than spending that extra 1/2 hr trying to push that boot base tuck in...which fail to do do. The other side only took me 15 min to remove wheel and change rotor and pad....

Try driving and braking...feels good, quiet....smooth.

I'll look into the off position boot later on.

As for the old cheap eBay pads!!!NEVER EVER buy those cheap pad....the brake shop say that's how cheap pad sounds...but Wrong....the brake pad actually worn down all the way in 8 months....WTF...they should make it illegal to sell those cheap pad...C'mon, cheap pad is cheap pads but only 6-8months? And kill your rotor....

 

Without being able to see or access the caliper, this caliper sounds like it may be frozen, or unable to function correctly. The purpose of the boot, is to allow the piston to move out when the pedal is pushed down, and assist when the brakes are released and it is pulled back in. In some cases, the piston may not pull back in, causing the pads to remain against the rotor, creating large amounts of friction (heat). If you notice your vehicle starting to pull to that side (tire pressures and alignment aside), or you get out of your vehicle and notice a burning smell and your rim is hot (very), I suggest taking another look at that caliper. Generally speaking, complete calipers are mildly more expensive than a caliper rebuild kit (if its even offered).

And as Im writing this, Im thinking about your "cheap pads" wearing down prematurely.. this is pure speculation, but a malfunctioning caliper(s) would cause premature/uneven wear of the pads due to excess contact (friction/heat). Again, I have no idea, but keep an eye out for anything strange (noises, heat, shimmy, shake, etc) after youve done this job.

Cheers.

 

Thank for tips mate....yeah, both front L/R pads all work down. The right caliper & boot look great, just the left caliper if having the boot not sitting flush.

I will look into replacing the boot soon...