so how do you auto wrenchers deal with this?

i intalled a downpipe on my wagon today...and the only thing that gave me problems was the O2 sensor...couldn't get that schiznit out...i was able to turn it like 2 turns then bish seized...i muscled it through and fubared it to hell...

i was reading...and some said to heat up the **** then tap at it to loosen then turn, etc...

my torch is at my folk's house...and i was at my house...so i couldn't do that...

some said to start up the car and let it idle some to heat up the pipe...well...the dp was off the car...

anyway, costly mistake...$150 for a new sensor...sigh...

should've just let the shop do it for $70...but instead...i did it myself...and though i feel good, i'm down $80 more than if i had let the shop do it...

t

 

Heat will do you wonders. Its too bad you did not have your torch, could have saved you $80.

Sometimes if you can get it to turn, another trick is to run it back down a turn, back out two, back in one, back out two while spraying it with some kind of solvent like wd-40 or similar. But I have found over the years, especially with anything that involves the exhaust, your best friend is your torch!

 

Damn, normally breaking is the hardest part! Sounds like heat might have helped a little but I'm guessing not too terribly. Guess you should be sure to put some anti-seize on the new one for next time. Flare wrenches are also your friend in that kinda situation.

 

A lot of "penetrating" oil like PB blaster. Not wd-40. My spit is better than that stuff.


You should have bought the O2 sensor with out the pigtails. Always saves you 50% or more. You just cut off your stock one and crimp/solder it to the new O2 sensor.

 

next time...i will take the torch to it...muahahahah...

yea i used pb blaster and tried the turn once, back once, turn 2x back 2x...but no go...

the new one came with antiseize on it already...i don't know if the car came from the factory with it or not though.

whatever, instead of loctite, i'm going antiseize on everything now...HAHAHHAHA

 

Thats a really expensive sensor. My dad bought a sensor for his blazer from united auto supply and it was only like 40 bucks, prewired.

What kind of torch do you have? If I have trouble I either use propane or mapp gas. There's really no need to use acetylene.

 

the subaru sensor has like 4 wires going in and out of it...idk why so many...probably 2 for sensor itself and then 2 for power/heater?

yea it was bling...i have no choice but to pay it...autozone was cheaper, but it's an order item...none in stock...dealers had it...for 161 including tax...or i'd be vehicless...bike is out of commission with a flat tire until i get my stimulus bling!

 

best way to get out a seized o2 sensor. soak the o2 sensor edges with wd40, let sit overnight, or at least a few hours, then remove. loosens it right up. heat works, but you have to be careful. if the threads of the sensor are completely bonded, heat will just remove the threads from the sensor entirely. the wd40 way takes longer, but you wont mess anything up.

 

Even us Mechanics have troube with them sometimes. A lot of the time, if the Air Fuel sensor, or O2 sensor wants to sieze, nothing will stop it. I have had to remove and rethread a lot of exhaust manifolds for this reason. Sometimes heat will work, but not usually. It also greatly depends if you are working on domestic vs import. It looks like you got it handled though.

 

Antisieze is just what the name implies. You dont put it on regular nuts/bolts you want to keep tight.