GDAY ALL, HOWS THINGS . IVE HEARD A FEW DIFFERENT STORIES ON HOW TO RUN UR BIKE IN . THE OWNERS MANUAL FOR A 600RR RECOMENDS KEEPING IT UNDER 7K FOR THE FIRST 1000KS! THE SALESMAN WHO SOLD ME THE WEAPON SAID TO HAVE FUN UNDER 10K.
I HAD AN INTERESTING CONVERSATION WITH THE MECHANIC AT 1ST SERVICE AND HE SAID THE DAYS OF RUNNING A MOTOR IN ARE ALL BUT GONE. WHAT THE??? I KEPT MINE UNDER 10K AND NO PROBLEMS- PULLS LIKE A STEAM TRAIN ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP END.

THIS BRINGS FORTH THE QUESTION- AS LONG AS YOU DONT HOLD THE REVS UP IN THE EARLY DAYS OF UR MOTOR, HOW MUCH IMPACT DOES A RUNNING IN STYLE REALLY HAVE? i GUESS THE ONLY WAY TO TELL WOULD BE TO RIDE LOTS OF DIFFERENT BIKES EXACTLY THE SAME AS YOURS. OR MAYBE GET IT ON THE DYNO OR SOMTHIN WITH SOMEONE WHO KNOWS THE BIKE INSIDE AND OUT.

MATES HAVE BEEN TESTING MINE AND RECKON ITS SWEET. IVE BEEN RIDING 24/7 FOR THE LAST WEEK NOW AND I SWEAR ITS NOT AS PUNCHIER AS WHEN I FIRST RODE ONE. MAYBEE I JUST NEED A REST FOR A COUPLA DAYS SO IT SEEMS QUICKER AGAIN?
IM CONFUSED, MAYBEE IM JUST TRIPPING. COULD THIS BE AN ILLUSION?????? INTERESTING THOUGHT.................[sm=smiley20.gif]

[IMG]local://upfiles/12573/96E5441431794E5A957D6CF279035D7B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Running in has been a topic of issue since the introduction of good synthetic motor oils. Some say that they are so good it negates running in completely, others say that the engine isn't run in properly if you use it from day 1, as it can cause a glaze on the pistons and cylinders.

I'm still mindful to keep running in as advised by the honda booket though. In relation to it not feeling as punchy, YEP. it might be that you have just got used to it, but I've always noticed it on new bikes, they just get a little looser so aren't so affected by engine braking and rolling on and off the throttle as much. It should be making good power further up the rev range though.

 

Ride it like you stole it! I like that you told it a weapon!

 

ride it like you're going to ride it mang...

that's how i did it...but then again, 500 miles is very easy to do.

 

YEH I ALSO NOTICE THAT WHEN THE BIKE IS LESS THAN 1ST SERVICE OLD , HONDA SUPPLY A THICKER SUPPOSED RUN IN OIL.
IM NOW RUNNING A SEMI SYNTHETIC OIL AND NOTICED EXTRA POWER THRU THE WHOLE RANGE. IT SPINS VERRY FREELY AT TOP END, JUST CLEAN AND BEAUTIFUL!!! IM EXPECTING MY BIKE WONT BE FULLY RUN IN TILL AT LEAST 3-4K ON THE CLOCK. I NOW HAVE 2500K'S ON HER AND CAN NOTICE THE BIKE BEING MORE FORGIVING ALLREADY IN TERMS OF SUSPENSION , BRAKING AND GENERAL HANDLING. THE BIKE IS ONLY 3 WEEKS OLD AND NOW THAT IM STARTING TO GET A GOOD FEEL FOR IT , ID SAY THE HARDER I RIDE HER(WITH IN REASON) THE BETTER IT PERFOMS. BRING IT ON!!!!!

KEARNSY

 

you can ask 100 different people and you'll get 100 different answers! same thing on which motor oil is best to use.. these are two topics are best left off of the forums.

 

Keanrs what's with the all caps?

 

When I had my 2nd service, took it to a place that I knew had a decent rep with mechanics, got there early and the mechanic was the 1st to arrive, helped him open the shop. So I picked his brains about just that topic.
He mentioned that you can tell when a CBR has not been run in properly. Ok you have to vary the load on the motor, not stick to one speed for mile after mile. change down going up hills. But the most important thing is to give it a decent thrash after the 1st 500 miles.
And keep doing it, it helps keep carbon build up from your pistons, keeps the plugs cleaner. they are high performance motors and need to be treated at such.
He said the biggest problem with a lot of riders, they nurse em to much. Just keep them in tune, make sure the carbs are spot on (no prob with fuel injected) and change your oil regularly.
Way back in the distant past (mine) they used to add a graphite mix to the oil of all motors (not just bikes) this helped bed the motors in. Thats why you had to change the oil at the 1st service (or risk wearing the buggers out) Now it's just a so called "free 1st service" where they charge you for the expensive oil! (Yeah it's got suspended metals in it, but this goes on all the time any way).The biggest problem then was heat dispersal, but with the introduction of better casted alloys, oils and engine design, this vertially eliminated the running in process, but the most critical stage of any donk is the 1st few hundred clicks.
Ask anyone who has failed to do this after a major engine re-build