Hmmmm.

How many CBRforum members does it take to properly define anodizing?

 

"an·o·dize /ˈænəˌdaɪz/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[an-uh-dahyz] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation –verb (used with object), -dized, -diz·ing. Chemistry. to coat a metal, esp. magnesium or aluminum, with a protective film by chemical or electrolytic means. [/align]Also, especially British, an·o·dise."

"Anodizing, or anodising, is an electrolytic passivation process used to increase the thickness of the natural oxide layer on the surface of metal parts. On many other metals, anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than bare metal. Anodic films can also be used for a number of cosmetic effects, either with thick porous coatings that can absorb dyes or with thin transparent coatings that add interference effects to reflected light. Anodizing is also used to prevent galling of threaded components and to make dielectric films for electrolytic capacitors. Anodic films are most commonly applied to protect aluminium alloys, although processes also exist for titanium, zinc, magnesium, and niobium."

" method of plating metal for such purposes as corrosion resistance, electrical insulation, thermal control, abrasion resistance, sealing, improving paint adhesion, and decorative finishing. Anodizing consists of electrically depositing an oxide film from aqueous solution onto the surface of a metal, often aluminum, which serves as the anode in an electrolytic cell."



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fishfryer, why cant a couple parts be done. I have done this stuff before with good results.

 

I just figured the cost would be very high maybe $150 (just a guess).Anodizing costs, plus a rebuild kit of gaskets, oil, o-rings and whatnot.

The metal would have to be stripped then redone. Given the cost of a new one is about $400, and the old one can be sold on ebay for$100 (maybe more), I thought the savings of $150 (old to new) to refinish it didn't make sense.

Also, I wasn't aware of any 'home kits' that would ensure a very nice finish but once you throw in that cost itcouldn't make sense. could it? Looking at it closer, maybe the re-anodize can be done for under 100, there are only a few parts, but I am not sure about how the tolerances would be without careful liquid masking. Stripping to metal with remove some substrate, changing its dimensions a tiny bit, I don't think it will be a problem, but we always masked off threads/ gasket surfaces and other stuff because they were critical.

On the surface it sounds like a classic case of throwing good money on top of bad. If you can't do it real cheap, then just get a new one. But it sounds like I was probably off a little. Right?

 

^^ Suddenly, "anodized paint" doesn't seem like such a bad idea.

 

^^^^ I thought you learned your lesson the last time

Do we have to go through the whole "anodized" thing agian. j/k

 

^^ lol. Sure did. That's why I put "anodized paint" in quotation marks this time.