kk lol and youve got a pm.... as for the leds, just to keep it simple in my mind ill probably stay with the 90k wide angle...

 

Check pm _Z_

 

returned

 

Man, the forum is slow.

Ok, according to the wizard you only need 2x40ohm resistors connected in 2 arrays.


And to dim the lights for using as running lights also you just solder one 22ohm inline with the running light wire.

I'll take a picture of what I'm saying

 

Sorry, but I already heat shrinked the wiring.

The orange wire is the positive that connects to the leds: the red is the braking light wire and the yellow is the running light.

You just solder the resistor in your running light wire to dim the light in normal operation and when braking, the signal will bypass the resistor giving full power to the leds.

 

Like this fine piece of art demonstrates

 

I do not know how many diodes you are using, However, here is a very general quick schematic for how I would personally lay this out. Depending on material and color LEDs will typically have a FB voltage drop of .7-2v.( i did not see this information) We could use a data sheet or model number for what the specific diode you are using, to calculate what resistance you need. digikey.com is a great resource for parts.


cool wizard.


it is good practice to put a resistor in series, I personally would NOT just run the leds without one.

diodes.png picture by dtucsondude - Photobucket


just an fyi some high power leds, need to be pulsed and have a heat sink.....(home lighting applications etc.)

sorry this post is kinda all over the place. forum does not like me either.

 

Agreed. Speaking as a mechanical engineer, you will get more current through your resistors if you run it in parallel, and the excess heat generated will increase the likelihood of de-soldering and shorts.

Some LEDs have very thermally conductive bases so they can be run significantly above the threshold voltage where they generate light so they generate brighter light at a higher voltage and current. These are InGaN, so their 'turn on' voltage will be between 1.9 and 4V, more likely at the lower end if they're red.

 

^yes...
too lazy to look up InGaN.



just for reference:
diode2.png picture by dtucsondude - Photobucket
assuming appropriate resistors are used all 3 ckts will output the same light. ckt 1 is what i would use(pending FB), if an led draws 100ma of current it will draw 100ma of current.
ckt3 will draw 400ma, means thicker wire, and more wasted power.

Now for why i would use an inline resistor:
ckt 2 will not work! since all 4 LEDs are not identical all 4 will not turn on or have similar light output. (I am trying to avoid going into more detail on why).
Also: lets say you have 4 LEDs in series(ckt1 remove resistor) without a resistor and they have a specified FB of 2v. if you connect that directly to 12 volts, they each will have 3v across them, bad things will happen. This is a little extreme but what do you think will happen when your bikes voltage varies anywhere from 10-16v(FYI your bike sees spikes to much higher voltages)? If you put a resistor in line with those 4 LEDs, and it is a semi appropriate value, the LEDs will happily sit at 2v.

If you have any questions I am an analog design engineer(electrical), but have only been working for a month. Feel free to pm or run your ideas by me.

 

im geting ready to pm you now, bc i dont talk or understand what the hell is going on haha